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Tootsies

Grade
22
Length
305m
0
Natural pro required
Quality
2.01
First ascent
P1-P7: Dave Vass, Steve Moore, Murray Judge, Pete Grey, March 1987.
Reroute + P8 & P9: Murray Judge, Sooji Clarkson, Ruari Macfarlane 2024.
Topo ref
2

Excellent (!!!) slab and face climbing that your tootsies will remember (for at least 40 years). 2x 60m ropes and at least 10QD required + 2x extenders recommended. Best climbed earlier in the day for minimal dampness on the roof traverse pitch (snowmelt from above).

Access: Scramble in across ledges from the looker's left, cross the water course, and start climbing up the clean corner.

Descent: 5x 60m rappels to the top of P4, then 60m down to a rap anchor (off-route on the climbers left). From there another 60m will get you to the access ledge.


  • P1
  • 17
  • 55m
  • Trad

Up corner to step right around rooflet, then up vague prow to the anchor.


  • P2
  • 17
  • 35m

Follow easy ground left, then mantle the mantley mantle, then back right along ledge to belay.


  • P3
  • 22
  • 25m

"you savage" - up small edges, then traverse right into anchor.


  • P4
  • 20
  • 30m

"Play" - left off belay, fun climbing through scoops and edges.


  • P5
  • 20
  • 25m

"Murray's Memory" - straight up to the jolly giant green holds. Alternative (20, original line) left off belay, up until tricky step down and right on small edges to traverse into belay


  • P6
  • 21
  • 30m

"the Judge-ment" - techy face climbing with final underclings to salvation jug.


  • P7
  • 22
  • 25m

"the Righteous Runout" - thin face moves. fear optional.


  • P8
  • 20
  • 40m

Trend left to touch the waterfall. Top of the slab onwards traverses hard right and is bolted closely to aid if the waterfall is very watery.


  • P9
  • 20
  • 40m

Onwards to top out on tootsie rest ledge with a beautiful view.


Comments
UUID
 
69f28206-962f-4f0b-a3c7-a8a29eae376c