Excellent (!!!) slab and face climbing that your tootsies will remember (for at least 40 years). 2x 60m ropes and at least 10QD required + 2x extenders recommended. Best climbed earlier in the day for minimal dampness on the roof traverse pitch (snowmelt from above).
Access: Scramble in across ledges from the looker's left, cross the water course, and start climbing up the clean corner.
Descent: 5x 60m rappels to the top of P4, then 60m down to a rap anchor (off-route on the climbers left). From there another 60m will get you to the access ledge.
- P1
- 17
- 55m
- Trad
Up corner to step right around rooflet, then up vague prow to the anchor.
- P2
- 17
- 35m
Follow easy ground left, then mantle the mantley mantle, then back right along ledge to belay.
- P3
- 22
- 25m
"you savage" - up small edges, then traverse right into anchor.
- P4
- 20
- 30m
"Play" - left off belay, fun climbing through scoops and edges.
- P5
- 20
- 25m
"Murray's Memory" - straight up to the jolly giant green holds. Alternative (20, original line) left off belay, up until tricky step down and right on small edges to traverse into belay
- P6
- 21
- 30m
"the Judge-ment" - techy face climbing with final underclings to salvation jug.
- P7
- 22
- 25m
"the Righteous Runout" - thin face moves. fear optional.
- P8
- 20
- 40m
Trend left to touch the waterfall. Top of the slab onwards traverses hard right and is bolted closely to aid if the waterfall is very watery.
- P9
- 20
- 40m
Onwards to top out on tootsie rest ledge with a beautiful view.