Skip to main content

Short Cut

Natural pro required
First ascent
Bruce Dowrick, Llewellyn Murdoch, January 2022
Located on
Topo ref

Climb mostly red rock 80m left of the “Turner Vass”. Start at low point left of hanging snow patch and left of large right facing corner. Good route overall, however pitch 2 is seriously loose and another variation should be done to avoid this.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 50m
  • Trad

Climb up fist crack and then right facing corner to ledge. Move right to belay in middle of left-facing corner.

  • P2
  • 20
  • 60m
  • Trad

Step right of belay and climb easy slabs to red bulge. Climb up left of red rock. Take any gear you find as next wall has lots of loose flakes and rock. Carefully up this to belay at large spike on large boulder. Would recommend doing this pitch differently as loose section is very dangerous. Could climb vegetated but okay-looking crack to the left or try hanging groove further right.

  • P3
  • 18
  • 50m
  • Trad

Step right of large chimney and climb steep hanging flake. When this ends drift right into splitter cracks.

  • P4
  • 16
  • 50m
  • Trad

Straight up for gear then step left past block and climb fun cracks to belay.

  • P5
  • 19
  • 50m
  • Trad

Easy ground to steep crack. Climb crack to technical bulge, above this climb to top of obvious flake. Drift left and up for 5m to great belay stance on the buttress.

  • P6
  • 19
  • 45m
  • Trad

Straight up the arete. A little run out but phenomenal climbing. From here a short scramble to the ridge.