| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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| 14 | South West Face | II 2 |
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From the Madeline Snowfield climb the snow face and finish on the upper South Ridge. The ridge can be reached sooner, at about 2200m, for a more challenging climb. The South West Face was used in the first traverse of Madeline on 16 January 1955, by Bill Blee, Ron Dickie, Bill Gordon and Ralph Miller. They descended the top of the North East Ridge and traversed the snow shelf on the north side of the peak back to Turners Pass. Jim Strang, Bruce Clark and Paul Corwin made the first winter ascent (IV, WI2).
Alf Cowling, Samuel Turner, March 1920
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| ML | Mad Line | IV 3 |
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A good route with a fun rock climb leading directly to the west summit of Mt Madeline. Access the rock ridge by climbing nearly to Turner Pass (the col east of Pt 2119) either from the Madeline Snowfield or slabs above the Age Glacier.
Steve Skelton, Justin Venable, Simon Rutherford, December 29 2016
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| 13 | North West Buttress |
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Climb the rock ridge from Turners Pass.
Margaret Clark, Jim Clark, G D Cowie, December 1958
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| North East Ridge from Glacier Creek |
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From the Donne Lake outlet, take easy slopes up and then left of the bluffs to gain the broad snow shelf and then the upper part of the North East Ridge.
R Offer, G Mason, A Witten-Hannah, December 1953
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| North East Ridge | III 2 13 |
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The full North East Ridge is a long climb. Start from the Hollyford Valley and head up Madeline Creek to gain the ridge just beyond the bushline. The first ascent traversed the mountain to Turner’s Bivvy and the Tutoko Valley.
Ian Brown, Tom Williams, February 2009
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Attribution:
Craig Jefferies
This place appears in
UUID:
16ea2ed8-690f-4897-b7b9-30b0efa19b6f