Mt Madeline

(5 routes)

Madeline is a popular climb from Turners Biv and a much less committing proposition than Tutoko. The first mountaineering party to venture into the Tutoko valley was that of Malcolm Ross, Kenneth Ross, W J Hodgkin and Tom Fyfe, in 1895. They claimed to have made the first ascent of Tutoko, but actually climbed the low (west) peak of Madeline.

-44.614239440000, 168.045887950000
D40 170 097
CA09 069 479
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
14 South West Face II 2
From the Madeline Snowfield climb the snow face and finish on the upper South Ridge. The ridge can be reached sooner, at about 2200m, for a more challenging climb. The South West Face was used in the first traverse of Madeline on 16 January 1955, by Bill Blee, Ron Dickie, Bill Gordon and Ralph Miller. They descended the top of the North East Ridge and traversed the snow shelf on the north side of the peak back to Turners Pass. Jim Strang, Bruce Clark and Paul Corwin made the first winter ascent (IV, WI2).
Alf Cowling, Samuel Turner, March 1920
ML Mad Line IV 3
A good route with a fun rock climb leading directly to the west summit of Mt Madeline. Access the rock ridge by climbing nearly to Turner Pass (the col east of Pt 2119) either from the Madeline Snowfield or slabs above the Age Glacier.
Steve Skelton, Justin Venable, Simon Rutherford, December 29 2016
13 North West Buttress
Climb the rock ridge from Turners Pass.
Margaret Clark, Jim Clark, G D Cowie, December 1958
North East Ridge from Glacier Creek
From the Donne Lake outlet, take easy slopes up and then left of the bluffs to gain the broad snow shelf and then the upper part of the North East Ridge.
R Offer, G Mason, A Witten-Hannah, December 1953
North East Ridge III 2 13
The full North East Ridge is a long climb. Start from the Hollyford Valley and head up Madeline Creek to gain the ridge just beyond the bushline. The first ascent traversed the mountain to Turner’s Bivvy and the Tutoko Valley.
Ian Brown, Tom Williams, February 2009
Craig Jefferies