Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
West Ridge | II 9 |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Just across from Homer Hut climb tussock slopes to the left-hand gully, moving up right to the second gully and the snowfields above. The ridge itself is a pleasant scramble over loose blocks to the summit.
Descending the lower bluffs can be difficult in snow or at night.
George Moir, Ken Roberts, Bob Sinclair, January 1923
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Cul de Sac | VI 5 |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
This is the gully on the left of the Lindsay Stewart Buttress, 1500m to the summit. The first section to the shoulder of the Lindsay Stewart Buttress is around 65 to 80 degrees and conditions dictate whether it is climbable as this is where unconsolidated snow can lie, and without protection becomes a voyage of the damned. From the shoulder up to the Cul de sac is lower angled, around 50-60 degrees and requires a ‘grind it down’ attitude. These pitches could be simul-climbed by a confident party. In the cul de sac there are two to three more technical pitches before the final gully to the summit.
It is one of the great classic climbs in New Zealand and rivals a lot of similar routes in the Aoraki/Mt Cook area for comparable steepness and length. Most parties pitching all the route could expect to bivvy somewhere. Stories of climbers ending up near the top without bivvy gear and shivering away a winters’ night are common, and in the style of the first ascent. There are no easy descent routes that could be attempted in the dark. However if the Crosscut Bluff descent is in good condition, avalanche wise and there is a full moon it could almost be pleasant.
The first section was climbed by Doug Warren and Ken Calder in 1973. Merv English solo to the shoulder, Bill McLeod soloed the full route in a day from Homer hut.
Geoff Gabites, Nigel Perry, Duncan Ritchie, Calum Hudson, June 1982
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
1 | Lindsay Stewart Buttress |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Take the prominent rib from Cirque Creek to the West Peak, generally following the crest of the rib. The rock is shattered and dangerous in places.
Lindsay Stewart, Don Stewart, Harold Jacobs, April 1967
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The Wrongest Day | 16 , , 19 , 19 , 19 , 13 , 20 , 18 , 14 , 15 | 385m |
|
![]() |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The south-west face. The upper right part of the face is made up of several
clean grey pillars, with many cracks. The climb goes up the highest part of
the face, immediately left of the second pillar from the right. A sustained
climb with excellent sharp rock, mostly good protection and a poor finish.
Pitch lengths are approximate. Map ref: NZTopo50 CB09 066 306
Access from the hut is either along the upper edge of the snowfield/glacier,
or by skirting the lower edge of the snowfield and then scrambling up the
thick seam of white granite on its right edge. Belay where the face steepens,
just above the white seam and beside a small buttress with a mosaic of cracks
on its left side.
Tom Williams, Ian Brown, 27 February 2012
|
Mt Crosscut West Pk
(4 routes)
Type:
Mountain
Altitude:
2203m
Attribution:
Craig Jefferies
UUID:
c9dad824-1dc4-4c08-a85d-066fb359450d
Comments
Hi Ian – I've tidied up the
Hi Ian – I've tidied up the formatting of your route a little (if it's not quite right, it may be the limitations of matching reality to a computer system, or I may just have got it wrong – feel free to change stuff round) and deleted the duplicate. I assume there is a story behind the name that we will find out about one day!
Help! Someone please delete
Help! Someone please delete the first version of The Wrongest Day (the one without South West Face in it). The one-way ratchet program doesn't seem to allow this. My excuse is I'm a new user. Thanks.