Ara whero

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
Climb follows line of red rock 20m left of “parallel lines”. Starting at the toe of the buttress. Single rack plus doubles in the finger sizes. Double ropes useful
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11860mYes
 

P1: up and left across slab to red stripe. Up this then slightly right at compact face to find good gear. Then back left passing Grey dyke and bongo flakes to good belay standing on flakes.

22160mYes
 

P2: directly above belay and then through bulge to the right. Good gear then straight up and slightly left following the jugs and great gear. Trend right into red corner and then onto ledge for good belay.

32060mYes
 

P3: climb fun easy red rock tending right to red bulge. Arrange gear and launch up the overhang on great holds. Belay on spike.

42120mYes
 

P4: short pitch up second red bulge. Good wires protect the crux. Great holds the whole way.

51950mNo
 

P5: step left from belay and climb short red corner directly. After this angle eases but good quality rock for the rest of the pitch. Spike belay on big ledge.

62150mYes
 

P6: climb the corner crack and roof between the two pillars.
Climb up crack trending right. Then straight up to left facing corner. Plug gear at the top of the corner and head way left on wild jug traverse. Mantle up and climb cracks to the ridge line.
Exposed and awesome. Haul the bag if you can on this pitch.

Grade: 
18,21,20,21,19,21
Quality: 
3
Gone: 
0
Length: 
300m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Bruce Dowrick & Llewellyn Murdoch Jan 2022
Route Image: 
UUID: 
c2ddb632-c44c-4946-88a6-3b04475a607d

Comments

I think this is more or less the same line as Katabatic?
Katabatic was previously wrongly shown here & in the Homer new routes book as being right of Parallel Lines but it is apparently the line of red rock to the left of Parallel.

Hey Rich.
From looking at the Katabatic topo looks like we were to the left again.
We were left of the big diagonal roof, first pitch was only 18 max and then we climbed a series of overhangs on red rock. Last pitch climbs a steep crack and roof to the summit, Which is 20m left of the “red rib” described in the katabatic topo.

Cool. So much space on that wall!