Up and right of Homer Sapiens is a large bay, at the back
of which are two grooves. The climb follows the left-hand groove. A thoroughly superb route. May actually be in condition even when it appears not. Much of the climbing
is deceptively steep. The first few pitches may be easier under heavier snow cover. Start at the foot of the groove.
P1: Climb the turfy groove. 60m
P2: Continue on tussock and snow. 80m
P3: Up the corner on turf, over rocky steps. Steeper than it appears. 50m
P4: Follow the steepening corner through two very steep bulges to a belay below a roof. 50m
P5: Take the thin turfy groove to the right of the roof onto slabby ground. Sparse protection. Continue to reach and climb a steep technical chimney. 50m
P6: Finish up vertical tussock. 40m
- P1
- Alpine (Technical) 5
- Alpine (Commitment) III
- 350m