Skip to main content

Mātuitui

Grade
20
Length
275m
14
Natural pro required
Quality
2.01
First ascent
Olivia Truax and Sam Waetford, November 2021
Located on

A moderate grade summer rock climb on a buttress on the Homer Tunnel Bluffs (between Homer Sapiens and Tunnel of Love). Seven pitches (275m) of interesting climbing, well equipped with bolts, 40 minutes from the road. Single rack of cams (0.2 to 2), set of wires and 14 quickdraws.

Descent. Walking off over Homer Ridge is recommended (short scramble from top of route to ridge and then down to saddle). The route can also be abseiled (eight 30-40m raps), need two ropes to rap. Stay right when rapping the top pitch to keep the rope out of the crack.

Bolted with support from the NZAC bolting fund.


  • P1
  • 17
  • 35m
  • 9
  • Trad

Short face then move to arete feature.


  • P2
  • 19
  • 35m
  • 12

Interesting climbing on the arete


  • P3
  • 20
  • 35m
  • 14

Absorbing face climbing


  • P4
  • 18
  • 40m
  • 6
  • Trad

Move left off belay then up easy ground to bolts. To access pitch 5 walk 20m along grassy rib to base of short wall.


  • P5
  • 16
  • 55m
  • 3
  • Trad

Follow crack up face and trend right past two bolts and up to rap anchor. Climb easy ground with some tussock up to base of headwall. [this pitch can be split in two using rap anchor]


  • P6
  • 17
  • 35m
  • 6
  • Trad

Consistent face climbing with good gear


  • P7
  • 15
  • 40m
  • 4
  • Trad

Climb right hand side of slab to top


Comments
UUID
 
9e16e294-25a1-4502-b3fc-58d399fe8e1e