Natural pro requiredA good half day mission from Homer Tunnel to the Homer Ridge.
Find the start of the climb as for Matuitui, 20m above the cairn that is at the start of the scramble approach of Matuitui.
Rappelling the route is possible.
Up to 12 bolts in some pitches.
A few trad placements with cams upto BD #1
- P1
- 18
- 65m
- 10
- Trad
Go left past 3 bolts the up broad gully to head wall, the back left to take steps onto belay Recommend split this pitch in two.
- P2
- 20
- 40m
- 12
Go rightwards onto the slab, up past the vegetation trending leftwards to belay
- P3
- 2
- 60m
Go across the flat area to the left rear corner to start upper pitches
- P4
- 16
- 25m
- 5
Start at 2bolts, the go across left to pick up corner the upto belay
- P5
- 20
- 30m
- 12
Stay right of the vegetated crack up the vertical wall and onto slab. At the small overlap step left over vegetated crack and up steps to belay
- P6
- 18
- 30m
- 1
- Trad
Follow up the easy rib, until the bolt just before the belay.
- P7
- 17
- 50m
- 10
- Trad
Climb onto block, then onto slab. Go up steps trending leftwards straddling vegetated gully. Climb up final slab then left to belay
