The North East Face of Barrier Knob predominantly features high quality slab climbing on very good, water-worn rock.
A pdf topo of routes on the face, and nearby Quiet Earth Slab, can be downloaded at http://www.divshare.com/download/1091491-9f4
The north-east face of Barrier Knob can be accessed in two different ways:
If you are coming directly to the face from Homer Hut or Barrier Knob it is best gained via the Barrier Knob-Barrier Peak Col. From Barrier Knob, descend to the col, and then down-climb moderate slabs to the névé at the base of the face. To get to the Quiet Earth area of the wall; either don crampons and scoot along the névé, or skirt the bottom of the neve via rolling water-worn slabs.
To access the face from the Labyrinth area of the north face; traverse east over rolling, slabby terrain and scramble over a low angle ridge/arête that divides the two faces. Gain height once on the east side of the ridge to access the Quiet Earth section of the north-east face.
Quiet Earth follows a distinctive quartz streak in the centre of the wall.


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1 | Forgotten Silver | 16 ,18 ,20 | 125m |
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From single belay ring trend left up easy slabs past 2 bolts. Gradually diagonal back right and up ever steppening scallopped wall past lots of bolts to belay.An awsome pitch on perfect rock.
Mark Watson & Kristen Foley 2007
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2 | Utu | 25 ,22 ,24 | 110m |
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Start at single belay ring. Up right facing flake. Step left to bolt and climb upto thin crimping and tricky footwork. Move right to wire placements, back left and up past bolt. Trend right on easy ground to belay.
Mark Watson & Kristen Foley 2007
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Poi E | Poi E | 14,19,18,17 | 195m |
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A mixed protection route on the crest of a pinnacle on left side of Quiet Earth Slabs. Interesting, varied climbing with flakes, pockets, corners and slabs. Access by rappel (2x60m ropes required) or from below.
To abseil, look for 2 rings on crest of pinnacle. Abseil 55m down crest, then climbers right to grassy ledge. Rap 2 - down 35m then look climbers left under small roof. Rap 3 - 57m down then climbers right to LH edge of ledge.
From ground, scramble, or ~gd 14 climb up broken slabs to left hand edge of large ledge system to LHS of Quiet Earth slabs. Starts at single ring.
1 set wires, 1 set cams up to #2 camalot and 13 quickdraws, including many long extenders.
Developed S Fortune and Ben Dare Jan 2018 and S Fortune Jan 2022. FFA: S Fortune, Olivia Truax and Sam Waetford, Jan 2022
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3 | Planet of My Dreams | 18 |
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Six pitches. On the slabby face just down from the col with Barrier, this route is easily reached from the Barrier Knob - Barrier Col.
Calum Hudson, Rob Turner, 1987.
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The Navigator | 18 , 16 , 17 , 16 , 14 | 220m |
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A direct line on the centre of the north-east face of Barrier Knob. Starts approximately 20m left of Quiet Earth on the left side and lowest point of the slabby ‘bulge’ in the face.
. From the névé climb up to shallow horizontal overlap. Turn this at left end and climb right-trending grooves and slabs for a few metres before heading straight up to belay.
Tom Riley, Mark Watson, Allan Uren, March 2006.
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4 | Ruby and Rata | 15 , 13 | 105m |
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Climbed as an access route for the bolting of Quiet Earth and Sleeping Dogs.
Approximately 20m left of the prominent white quartz streak of Quiet Earth. Climb discontinuous, slabby corners and ledges up and slightly left. Good protection. Belay on ledge.
Mark Watson, Tom Riley, March 2006.
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5 | The Quiet Earth | 21,21 | 100m |
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A classic two pitch route with diverse climbing on excellent rock. Carry wires and 1 set of cams to #4.
An excellent rope-stretching pitch following a prominent quartz streak. Start on the right side of the streak and follow the bolts, crossing to the left side of the streak below the steepening. Climb the vertical section (underclings) on its left and then up the slab, following bolts and streak to a belay just above an overlap.
Mark Watson, Tom Riley, March 2006.
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6 | Sleeping Dogs | 22 | 50m |
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A full 50m pitch of tricky and interesting slab climbing. 7 bolts. Take wires and small cams (1/2-3/4 essential).
Start 5m right of Quiet Earth at belay bolt. Climb up and right, past right end of small overlap and follow technical, slabby ground (crux) up past bolts to prominent diagonal overlap (cam placement). Move left over lower part of overlap and continue up easing ground and past ledge before final section of steep slab to belay.
Tom Riley, Mark Watson, March 2006.
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7 | Bridge to Nowhere | 15 | 50m |
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Gain by scrambling right up slabby ramp to a belay point where corner steepens. Bridge up vague corner system past unusual bulgy rock. Terrain eases below the left end of prominent mossy overlap/roof-line (cam placements), traverse right to bolt belay of Goodbye Pork Pie.
Mark Watson, Tom Riley, March 2006.
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8 | Goodbye Pork Pie | 23 | 50m |
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50m. 10 bolts. Carry small to medium cams and wires. A stunning pitch of technical slab climbing on featured rock. Start off ledge and climb straight up for a few metres following bolts. Trend diagonally up and right utilising dimples and tiny holds (crux), to right hand end of overlap. Continue straight up, and with devious moves gain scoop. Keep following prow past bolts and occasional natural pro placements to belay.
Mark Watson, Tom Riley, March 2006.
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The route takes a line immediately right of a pronounced grassy rib. Climb through initial bluffs onto the rib then right toward the summit of Barrier Knob.
Pete Glasson, Ken Calder, Al Smith, Mar 1972.
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Daisy | 12,19,18,15,20 | 135m |
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Daisy (20) is a multi-pitch climb on the north-east face of Barrier Knob. When looking from the base,
the route is on the right-hand side and about 50m away from the “Forgotten Silver”. Nice moves in
every pitch on great quality rock.
1 st Pitch: (19), 40m, 7 bolts
2 nd Pitch: (18), 30m, 5 bolts
3 rd Pitch: (15), 25m, 4 bolts
4 th Pitch: (20), 25m, 5 bolts.
ACCESS:
1. From Gertrude Saddle, walk up a reasonably formed path (unmarked) towards the snow
fields for about 20 minutes. Afterwards, start traversing right either on snow slopes or rock
and scree in late season. Crampons may be required throughout the whole summer if
approaching the route before noon. Allow about 20-30 minutes on the traverse, then head
up the rock slabs towards the summit ridge of Barrier Knob and look for a big cairn which
marks the start/end of the route. Once you look over the ridge, you’ll spot a spacious ledge
and an anchor with orange rep cord and an old hex marked “Daisy”. Rappel to the base of
the route, each of the 4 pitches separately.
2. From Barrier Knob, descend to the Barrier Peak col, and scramble down the slabs to the
névé at the base of the face. Head left, and keep an eye out for a single bolt with orange rep
cord which marks the start of the route. Scramble up a steeper 15m high slab (gr.12) to the
first anchor.
ANCHORS:
Bolted – 2 bolts; 2 maillons.
GEAR:
10 quickdraws, optional - few small cams & nuts for the access pitch (gr.12).
FFA Vladimir Suraba, Veronika Vlcekova, February 2021
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