Copper Point | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

Part of

Local name for the truncated base of the North Ridge of Mitre Peak.
Up to 200m vertical walls, a massive capping overhang, and slabs on the west side. Logistics can be a little tricky but well repaid by some of the most spectacular climbing anywhere.

Aspect

North

Lat/lon

-44.6127,167.8513, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

CA08 915 472

Approach

Accessed via sea to the point, it is recommended that you travel to and from CP in the early morning if you are in personal craft as the sea breeze during the day makes travel difficult and sometimes dangerous.
All routes can be accessed directly from the water. a single ring-bolt is placed above the high tide mark so climbers can clip in and sort gear after disembarking.You can also Rap in to all routes and climb back out if you are at CP for multiple days without a vessel. Closest good camping is at Bridal Veil Falls beach, 1km west. Moraine Beach, 3km west, also offers camping plus more climbing. By sea-kayak it is about 2 hours from Deep Water Cove. Try Roscos Sea Kayaks for water taxi options (2020/2021 price $80PP return this should be organised by email beforehand) .

Copper Point juts out into the Sound and constricts the sea breeze so it can get blowy. On the plus side, this often keeps the sandflies away. Wind shells, long sleeves, long thin socks you can climb in and insect repellent are all a good idea.

The Track off the top is well cut and marked(pink) back to camp/beach. It will take about 1 hour to walk back to the beach.
There are two turn-offs to the Boaty Mc Boat face and Titanic along the way which are marked in Orange tape.
Routes 1-6 are on copper points main face.
Route 7 Titanic is a closed project
Routes 8 & 9 are on the Boaty Mc Boat Face. which is listed as a separate face see below.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Straight out of lock down, 25	25			0
Gear 12 x draws Single green c3 2 x sets nuts , 2 x cams red c3 – 3 and single #4 camalot. Maybe take triple .75 – 1 if linking pitches 3-4. ( not essential if your feeling solid at the grade ) The climb out of the water is very easy. Exit into the bush by climbing up past a bolt to a tree belay then walk out. You may want a rope on for the walk up to the track. It’s a bit exposed through the bush but we cut the track fairly well. P1 25 Trad Pitch one 20, 45m, move right off the single bolt belay. Up crack for 5m then move left to join the nice crack line. ( do not go straight up the crack that splits the roof above as its loose) belay on sloping ledge or link with pitch 2 and belay at the base of the pillar. Pitches three -m four 23, 35m climb as a single pitch or belay on small sloping ledge mid height. At the top of the crack move left past single bolt to double bolt belay on the edge of the prow. A wild stance and an awesome pitch. Move five meters through bush to the base of the next pitch. Being careful not to fall in the hole at the base of this pitch. Pitch five 25, 17m, six bolts Stick clip or stand in sling off the belay bolt and pre clip the first bolt. Crux is off the deck then the climbing eases to a small sting at the end of the pitch. Pitch six 19, 10m Trad with one bolt. We un earthed this pitch from the jungle but it should clean up well with some rain. Move up and left to a great stance and double bolt belay. Pitch seven 24, 17m six bolts Pitch eight 25, 35m the money pitch . This is the pitch of the climb. Amazing overhanging crack climbing. Save a number 1 nut and .4 cam for the final moves.
2	2Taratahi, 24	24			0
Climbs the large continuous black slab to the left of the main face of Copper Point. Can approach by boat or abseil. Well protected techy climbing on a fantastic sweep of rock. Approach from bottom: Route starts from a large square cut platform approx 5m above sea, with a short overhanging crack below. Approach from the left, step off boat up to a small ledge and single ring. Traverse 8m right and up to the platform, with 1 protection bolt. Approach from top: Take the descent track to the summit of the point. Head to rock slabs down and to the right of top of Sirens et al. 5m above lowest slab a track heads to right through scrub to top of climb. Anchors accessible to the right, a belay off tree may be needed to access. Rap the line, at least double 50m ropes required. Start at a large, square cut platform approx 5m above sea with a single ring Rack: Single set cams up to #2 camalot, small set offset nuts (red), 14 draws. P1 24 P1: 21, 44m. Start from large square cut platform. Climb up crack on right, pull into corner further right past 3 bolts (crux). Climb splitter crack, then through the roof. Up slab past a bolt to belay on the left. P2: 18, 12m. Short pitch up slab. P3: 23, 40m, Traverse left to arete and up arete. Some tricky friction climbing, up groove, left to arete and belay on ledge P4: 24, 36m. Easiest to get to first bolt from left. Climb face to funky groove. Above groove step right to bolt, up and back left to belay. Superb. P5: 21, 25m. Layback steep arete on left side of roof, then up slab. Clip last bolt on ledge and step right to belay. P6: 23, 42m. A tricky step right of belay to crack. Up to 3rd bolt then left onto face. Some cool moves up knobs, right side of small roof and more slab angling right. P7 22, 30m. Cool climbing up flakes. Climb to top of rock! From belay, step left and up into scrub where a track takes you to open slabs. Follow up and right to knob on top of point where the normal descent track starts.
3	3Namu Namu Namu, 23,A0	23,A0			0
All belays double bolt with ring. Take two ropes. Scarmble up ledge from ocean. Belay at small tree. No ring on this route above landing. P1 23 Aid A0 1:18 45m: Left from belay, ramp to escape through arête onto slab. Belay under leatherwood. 2: 19 30m: Short slab, leatherwood, black slab to exit right through scrub onto spacious vegated ledge. 3: 23 45m: Left facing corner leads to searing arête, bit of a scramble at top. 4: 21 35m: From belay, 2 bolts lead to cracks, corner, more bolts lead to another spacious belay. 5: A0 12m: Steep bulge to right, traverse across the void to gut wrenching belay.Not yet free, will go at 26/27, bolted to A0 through cruxes 6: 22 35m: Corner, steeper than it looks, to belay at ledge. 7:22 20m: Exit via burly cracks past 3 bolts
4	4Ta Moko, 25	25			3
Mega classic up the beautiful orange rock. Start a single ring at the base of the big left facing corner (Sirens call) climb up via first two pitches of sirens call, then move left onto orange rock. exposed well protected climbing on great rock Single rack to #2. 14 draws P1 25 Trad P1: as for SC 16 50m P2: as for SC 22 30m p3: 22 20m Head out left from belay and up cracks. move left again to double bolt anchor P4:25 45m Up technical orange wall following bolts and then left on line of jugs P5: 23 30m Up corner left of belay then back right onto face. airy climbing on corner and pillar above. P6 22 40m great climbing on orange rock following bolts past double dykes P7 25 20m From belay climb slab out left and up under Roof. out the roof past two bolts, exposed. p8 21 15m up splitter crack to optional belay p9 25 20m out underclings and up into tricky groove, then move back left and belay on big ledge. can link with pitch 8 easily p10 15 30m shares the end of the last pitch of sirens call
4.5	4.5Fist Full Of Copper, 26	26	65m	6	3
A Direct finish for Ta Moko. Climb Ta Moko to the top of pitch 6. Then climb directly out the big roof and up the groove above. This route then joins the last pitch of Sirens Call. Rack: Cams single rack- #0.2-1 and Offset wires. Dark green line on topo P1 25 25m 3 Trad From Ta Moko anchor clip the single ring bolt and traverse hard right on jug rail to the crack above the ledge. Straight up past 1 bolt to the roof and out the roof crack past another bolt. Mantle onto great belay ledge. Save a 0.5 for the end. P2 26 40m 6 Trad Amazing groove pitch. Leave the belay left past bolt into tight stem. Stem past great wires and small cams to fun climbing up orange flakes. Rest out left before heading up the fused corner crack past 6 more bolts. Difficult laybacks, stemming and face climbing lead to a big ledge and belay. Leave the last bolt clipped to protect the rope from sharp edges.
5	5Sirens Call, 24	24			0
The big obvious corner that cuts a line down the main face. Good climbing on wild terrain. Rock improves in quality after the first pitch which is loose. The route starts at a bolted Belay 5m above the water. the route follows the corner and skirts the overhangs to the right. Take a single rack to #2. Red TCU or Black Totem useful. Offset nuts useful P1 24 Trad P1 16 50m 4B: Up slabby dirty corner to belay before steep ground below black roof. P2 23 30m 3B: Steeply up black rock to gain corner. P3 22 30m: Top out of lower corner into main corner. Take right hand flake P4 23 30m 7B: The corner. P5 24 24m 5B: Up corner then rising traverse to arête. P6 21 35m 3B: Out over the void, head up and left along the lip. P7 21 35m: Up an left to the edge. Top belay 2 bolts (no ring). 5m further up and right two 2 bolts with ring (for rap descent).
6	6Ship Of Fools, 19	19	170m		2.01
19,18,19,18. 170m. Great climbing in a fabulous position. Has had rave reviews by repeat ascensionists, according to the first ascensionists. Many bolts + some trad. Bring a small supplementary single rack. 2 x 50m ropes required. If accessed from below, from the rock apron scramble to the solar panel, down and across to the exposed arete. Scramble up arete and find track through scrub. The hotel-sized rock is passed via fixed ropes on the right. The track continues to bolts marking the start of the route. If accessed from above, the top abseil rings can be found at the highest point of the wall. YELLOW line on topo photo P1 19 170m Trad
	Rowboat of Geniuses, 20	20	80m		2.01
A small but brilliant way to get to the "Ship of Fools". Also a nice short adventure in its own right. Climbs the wall on the north side of the Copper Point ridge. A lovely old style traditional route. Done in a nice style. Ground up, onsight, zero bolts (lets please keep it that way). This 3 pitch route starts 30 meters right of the start of "Aquaman". It goes up a defined black corner that leads up to a series of roofs that look like an inverted staircase. Follow rightwards under the staircase roofs evenutally climbing through the right side of them via the obvious overhanging groove. Above the roofs climb the prominent pillar split by a distinct white and red finger crack. Generally very well protected. The odd loose rock. Climb with gentle caution. Access the base by boat. Land on to comfortable ledges where you can freely stand, sort your gear out and even flake your ropes. Belay out of line of the route to stay out of the way of any rocks displaced by the leader. Gear: double rack of cams to BD #3, single #4, a set of nuts, 14 quickdraws, extendable slings. Suggest double ropes for drag management, redundancy, and to enable easier retreat should it become necessary. P1 15 25m Trad Pitch 1: Climb the lovely crack in the wall just left of the black corner. This eventually leads into the corner proper. Make a gear belay under the first roof to minimize rope drag and communication difficulties on the subsequent pitch. P2 20 15m Trad Pitch 2: Climb rightwards staying under the roofs until you can move up the overhanging crack / groove. Climb carefully over the lip (some potentially loose blocks) and belay 3 meters above the roof. Keep the belay rightside of the prominent crack above. Physical intimidating climbing on large holds. Place your protection carefully to minimize rope drag and to keep the rope from jamming in the crack over the roof. P3 20 40m Trad Pitch 3. Climb airly up the obvious white and red crack that splits the hanging pillar. When the crack ends mantle up and right onto a small shelf. Then stretch out right to gain the offwidth. Follow this and the merciful face holds to the top of the wall. Above the rock move onto steep vegetated face that is climbed up to the ridge top. Belay off the bigger trees on the ridge top. From here you can either keep walking up to Ship of Fools or you can follow the ridge back down to end up on the seal platform.
	The Golden Seal, 16	16	20m		3
Obvious rightward slanting corner crack up the beautiful golden face above the seal platform. Short, but impecable climbing on perfect rock. Should not be passed up if you happen to be here with bit of time to spare. P1 16 20m Trad The obvious, clean, right leaning, corner crack. Pure well protected joy up the golden wall. Take a few small and medium cams and a few small wires. A single abseil bolt at the top of the final slab. Thought we might have been the first team to bother to climb this feature, but when we got to the top we found a single lower off bolt. Anyone know who first did this?

Comments

llewellynmurdoch

Added info and topo photo

Fri, 18/12/2020 - 08:05 Permalink

UUID

8dcca3e5-6b0d-4cfb-ad38-046cc58c59e5