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1 | Straight out of lock down | 25 |
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Gear
12 x draws
Single green c3
2 x sets nuts , 2 x cams red c3 – 3 and single #4 camalot. Maybe take triple .75 – 1 if linking pitches
3-4. ( not essential if your feeling solid at the grade )
The climb out of the water is very easy.
Exit into the bush by climbing up past a bolt to a tree belay then walk out. You may want a rope on
for the walk up to the track. It’s a bit exposed through the bush but we cut the track fairly well.
Karl Merry Schimanski , Daniel Joll May 2020
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2 | Taratahi | 24 |
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Climbs the large continuous black slab to the left of the main face of Copper Point. Can approach by boat or abseil. Well protected techy climbing on a fantastic sweep of rock.
Approach from bottom:
Route starts from a large square cut platform approx 5m above sea, with a short overhanging crack below. Approach from the left, step off boat up to a small ledge and single ring. Traverse 8m right and up to the platform, with 1 protection bolt.
Approach from top:
Take the descent track to the summit of the point. Head to rock slabs down and to the right of top of Sirens et al. 5m above lowest slab a track heads to right through scrub to top of climb. Anchors accessible to the right, a belay off tree may be needed to access.
Rap the line, at least double 50m ropes required.
Start at a large, square cut platform approx 5m above sea with a single ring
Rack: Single set cams up to #2 camalot, small set offset nuts (red), 14 draws.
Llewellyn Murdoch Steven Fortune Dec 2020
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3 | Namu Namu Namu | 23 A0 |
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All belays double bolt with ring. Take two ropes. Scarmble up ledge from ocean. Belay at small tree. No ring on this route
above landing.
Brooke Sandahl, James Spiers and Ed Nepia, March 2017
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4 | Ta Moko | 25 |
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Mega classic up the beautiful orange rock. Start a single ring at the base of the big left facing corner (Sirens call) climb up via first two pitches of sirens call, then move left onto orange rock. exposed well protected climbing on great rock
Single rack to #2. 14 draws
Bruce Dowrick, Richard Turner, James Spiers and Ed Nepia, March 2018
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4.5 | Fist Full Of Copper | 25,26 | 65m |
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A Direct finish for Ta Moko.
Climb Ta Moko to the top of pitch 6. Then climb directly out the big roof and up the groove above. This route then joins the last pitch of Sirens Call.
Rack: Cams single rack- #0.2-1 and Offset wires.
Dark green line on topo
Llewellyn Murdoch, Jon Sedon. Nov 2022
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5 | Sirens Call | 24 |
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The big obvious corner that cuts a line down the main face. Good climbing on wild terrain. Rock improves in quality after the first pitch which is loose.
The route starts at a bolted Belay 5m above the water. the route follows the corner and skirts the overhangs to the right.
Take a single rack to #2. Red TCU or Black Totem useful. Offset nuts useful
Bruce Dowrick, Richard Turner and David Vass, March 2017
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6 | Ship Of Fools | 19 | 170m |
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19,18,19,18. 170m. Great climbing in a fabulous position. Has had rave
reviews by repeat ascensionists, according to the first ascensionists. Many
bolts + some trad. Bring a small supplementary single rack. 2 x 50m ropes
required.
If accessed from below, from the rock apron scramble to the solar panel, down
and across to the exposed arete. Scramble up arete and find track through
scrub. The hotel-sized rock is passed via fixed ropes on the right. The
track continues to bolts marking the start of the route.
If accessed from above, the top abseil rings can be found at the highest
point of the wall. YELLOW line on topo photo
Bruce Dowrick, Bryan Moore, Tony Ward-Holmes. 13/12/14
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Places
Type | Title | Link to edit content |
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Crag | Boaty McBoat Face (2 routes) |
Comments
Added info and topo photo
Added info and topo photo