Lust (South Face)

Type: 
Alpine
Description: 
The 'more desirable' of the two south face ice lines; a problematic close relation to ‘Desire’. Forms when ice links up on the right of the ‘Band-Aid-Buttress’ creating an hourglass figure – the pillar in the middle can be detached and thin (as for the FA). Route meets SE ridge approximately 50m from the summit. Descent was via the Motorway. Generally WI2/3 climbing (in condition), with a 60m generally WI4 crux pitch - containing the 10m WI5 pillar (possibly easier in good condition). FA gear: Nuts (5 total – var sizes), Screws (x12). FA involved 5 pitches with additional sections of simul-climbing on connecting snow. 18-20 hours on FA from camp below Separation Glacier (In variable wx).
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
15+V5+WI5500mNo
Grade: 
V 5+ 5+ WI5
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
500m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Sooji Clarkson, George Loomes. October 2020.
Route Image: 
UUID: 
ecb7c91e-7b12-4829-90da-9ec2250b57a8