The 'more desirable' of the two south face ice lines; a problematic close relation to ‘Desire’. Forms when ice links up on the right of the ‘Band-Aid-Buttress’, creating an hourglass figure – the pillar in the middle can be detached and thin (as for the FA). Route meets SE ridge approximately 50m from the summit. Descent was via a large couloir to the Dennistoun. Generally WI2/3 climbing (in condition), with a sustained, 60m, WI4 crux pitch - containing a 10m WI5 pillar (possibly easier in good condition). FA gear: Nuts (5 total – var sizes), Screws (x12). FA involved 5 pitches with additional sections of simul-climbing on connecting snow. 18-20 hours on FA from camp below Separation Glacier (In variable wx).
|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
V 5+ 5+ WI5
Sooji Clarkson, George Loomes, October 2020.