Heel Hook Hijinks

Type: 
Rock
Reference: 
HHH
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12212m2Yes
 

Ingredients: One bouldering mat, one long quickdraw, a couple of small cams (.5 & .75 or small wires) and a cunning belayer.
Method: It is recommended to abseil into the climb and place quickdraws first as it is quite strenuous clipping. Place a long quickdraw in the second bolt to help prevent rope drag. The climb is very crumbly in places but all the essential holds are solid.
The Climb: Begin right of the first bolt. Boulder up a crumbly looking section to a ledge for your hands and begin traversing left to the bolt. Reach high to clip and keep traversing left around the corner using crimpy holds and multiple heel hooks. Aim for the small gap in the roof above the second bolt. Once through the roof the climb becomes much easier but is loose in places. Place a cam or a wire in the break at about half hight.
Note: The belayer has the option to anchor themselves to the large boulder. Also, be prepared for a big swing if you fall while clipping the second bolt. A very satisfying climb.

Grade: 
22
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
12m
Bolts: 
2
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Ben Gibbins 2012
Route Image: 
UUID: 
f8595788-773d-4ff4-8821-c1c8e0566990

Comments

Climbed this route on 13/3/2013. There's quite a few crumbly hand and foot holds that could do with the loose rock clearing off. Also note there is no top anchor (that I could find). Take care clipping the second bolt.