Shimmering Jelly Wall

(25 routes)

The wall closest to the road

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
The Deluge 10
0
In Tatters 20
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Left of Nocuous, climbing the overhanging brown wall, easier above the lone bolt After.
Paul Tattersall, 1990
N Nocuous 19 12m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
The overhanging arete. Follow the arete, placing gear to the left before moving right onto the face to the first bolt (shared with Thin Hedgehog), then up left edge of the face. Double bolt anchor.
Marcus Thomas, 1994
TH Thin Hedgehog 19 12m
0
3bolts
A steep, fingery wall, with some good climbing. Start up the right side of the wall against the RA crack; then move leftward to the first bolt (shared with Nocuous). Double bolt anchor slightly to the right. Originally climbed direct to the first bolt, but it’s harder than 19. Both this route and Nocuous used to have only one bolt and hence were seldom climbed – now with decent protection they’re both good routes.
Richard Thomson, 1987
RA Roadside Attraction 17 12m
1.02
wire representing trad
Follows the shallow crack. Good protection and nice moves.
Lindsay Main, 1980
Dressed to Kill 16
0
wire representing trad
the wall, pro only low down.
Alan Hill, 1997
B Bagatelle 15 12m
0
4bolts
Start between the cracks two metres left of FP and then slightly right for some (not great) protection. Finish straight up.
Lindsay Main, 1981
Fowl Play 13
0
wire representing trad
This route, a metre right, goes past a flake in the middle of the wall, then up, exiting though corner left of steeper section of wall. Scramble to Ring bolt anchor left of Shimmering Jelly rings. Good protection, but rather loose.
Lindsay Main, 1974
GH Gift Horse 12 12m
1.02
wire representing trad
Just right. From ledge,follow cracks and edges rightward to finish at SJ anchor. Good Gear.
Lindsay Main 1974
SJ Shimmering Jelly 20 12m
2.01
2bolts
The wall with two bolts (good #1 rock placement to protect the moves to the 1st). Great fingery moves, though the route wanders a bit following the holds. Tend left above the top bolt (anchors well back),
Pete Sykes
Intelligent Design 22
0
3bolts
Start as for Shimmering Jelly (clipping its first bolt) then break right and straight up over the bulge past two more bolts.
Stu Allan 2009
CT Cold Turkey 17 11m
0
wire representing trad
A steep crack from a ledge. Double fixed ring anchor on vegetated ledge. Good Gear.
Lindsay Main 1980
70c 70 cents worth 19 11m
1.02
5bolts
The fingery wall with great moves. Start either slightly L or directly below arete. Avoid L arete
Stu McConney 1999
SP Sacred Plummets 17
0
wire representing trad
Just left of a corner/chimney (Crag rat) topped by shrubbery. Start at the ledge and step left; then up the left side of the arete past a bolt(removed). Belay on the ledge to double fixed ring bolts. Better to spend your energy on 70 Cents Worth.
Neil Sloan 92 .
Crag Rat 16
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Work your way up the awkward corner (good cams) and swing right to clip Rogue Rat's second bolt. Continue more easily to the ring bolt anchors.
Neil Sloan 11/9/11
Rogue Rat 16
0
4bolts
Clip the first bolt from the security of the ledge if you are tall enough, make a few hard moves rightwards avoiding penduluming back into the corner, then grovel left to the second (strangely located) bolt. Then up easily to double ring bolt anchor.
Stu McConney 1997
Lichenable 12
0
5bolts
The left side of a rounded arete. Best anchor is two old bolts over the top or else traverse left to RR's ring anchors.
Lindsay Main 81
Mouse Trap 13
0
The slightly overhanging corner. Place gear in the righthand crack before climbing thru the bulge, then easier climbing to the top.
Jay Jellyman, 1999
RG Reserves Need Gondolas 15
2.01
wire representing trad
From left edge of wall at a gully. Up corner a short way and as soon as possible hand traverse right onto a slopey ledge. Place large cam in rabbit hole and then continue up centre of wall next to yellow lichen. A good route with good but interesting pro from wires and CDs.
Neil Sloan '92
DP Dead Possum 19
1.02
4bolts 5
Straight up at the left edge of the roof. The overhang on small holds leads to easier climbing up a wall, over a bulge and finishes up a juggy wall.
Pete Sykes
CB Chip Off The Old Block 19
0
wire representing trad
Climb the left side of the roof using a large block; then balance up to the right of the hebe and on up through a groove. Good pro if you trust the block not to move. (The block is gone so see what you think...)
Brett Gracie, 1992
Ape Index 23
0
3bolts
Rightwards thru the cave to the lip, after which it gets much easier.
Marcus Thomas, 2003
HHH Heel Hook Hijinks 22 12m
0
2bolts wire representing trad 1
Ingredients: One bouldering mat, one long quickdraw, a couple of small cams (.5 & .75 or small wires) and a cunning belayer. Method: It is recommended to abseil into the climb and place quickdraws first as it is quite strenuous clipping. Place a long quickdraw in the second bolt to help prevent rope drag. The climb is very crumbly in places but all the essential holds are solid. The Climb: Begin right of the first bolt. Boulder up a crumbly looking section to a ledge for your hands and begin traversing left to the bolt. Reach high to clip and keep traversing left around the corner using crimpy holds and multiple heel hooks. Aim for the small gap in the roof above the second bolt. Once through the roof the climb becomes much easier but is loose in places. Place a cam or a wire in the break at about half hight. Note: The belayer has the option to anchor themselves to the large boulder. Also, be prepared for a big swing if you fall while clipping the second bolt. A very satisfying climb.
Ben Gibbins 2012
RK Road Kill 19
0
wire representing trad
At the right edge of the cave pull through the overhang on big holds. Then straight up the wall above. Good pro - two ropes are useful. CD and sling anchor.
Lindsay Main 1996
Gambling 14
0
wire representing trad
Start just left of the plaque and move left across a slab to the V corner and up. Minimal pro.
UUID: 
7cef99cc-2916-46c0-b475-3e891b18966c