Babble Brook Biv, Right Hand Side

(12 routes)

East of Christian Principles Crag are another couple of crags that have recently had ascents on them. Standing at Pinnacles Hut, the crag is the prominent pyramid-shaped crag to the left of C P Crag (Grid Ref 798 310 Methven Map).

Most of the climbs have thin cracks, for gear and thin edges for your feet.

The first known ascent was put up by Greg Jack & Jean Tomkins, which was named Lumberjack.
Crax was assumed the first ascent of the crag but the second ascentionists found out they were not breaking new ground.
Over a few visits, Kevin Barratt, Grant Piper, Dave Van der Krabben & Greg Low, added new climbs to the crag.
Lindsay Main & Hugh Logan, carried on the fine tradition of bagging first ascents.

Best link up; bottom pitch of Lumberjack/ Crax, and top pitch of Aftershox.

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
1200m
Aspect: 
North
Access: 

Go to the point on the track where the Pinnacles Hut is first seen (grid ref 799 317). Climb on to the rocky knob uphill from the track.
Drop off knob downhill across grass to upper LHSide where grass meets the scrub. Look for a Cairn and go through scrub (semi-cut track) to dry creek bed.
Go between two big boulders and venture up LH creek bed (true right).
To avoid the bluff/ waterfall leave the creek bed on the LH side once above traverse back right into the creek bed.
When the creek goes left, go straight uphill onto terrace.
Go right into next creek under small waterfall.
There is a few flat sleeping ledges, the “Babbling Brook Biv.”

Lat/Lon: 
-43.617153150000, 171.386722620000
NZMS260: 
K36 798310
Topo50: 
BX20 698 694
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
DA Dave’s Retreat 18 ,17 55m
0
wire representing trad
Up twin crack system to ledge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11825mYes
 Up twin crack system to ledge.
21730mYes
 Up move left around nose up left facing corner, back right onto slab, left to rap station. 50m rap to ground.
Kevin Barrett, Dave Van der Krabben, Grant Piper. 2009
c Lumberjack 18 ,18 70m
0
wire representing trad
Start up apron below twin crack system to ledge and then climb the twin crack system to DBB.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11845mYes
 Start up apron below twin crack system to ledge and then climb the twin crack system to DBB.
21825mYes
 Go left from DBB through slightly overhung horizontal strata to top of crag.
Greg Jack, Jean Tomkins, 2007
C Crax 18 ,18 70m
2.01
3bolts wire representing trad
Follow up first pitch of Lumberjack to DBB
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11845mYes
 Follow up first pitch of Lumberjack to DBB
21825m3Yes
 Follow bolt around rhs of roof, up to bolted corner, back left to top out up face.
Kevin Barrett, Grant Piper 2009
L Lox 22 45m
1.02
wire representing trad
Up 2 corners right of DR to small ledge, up thin crack directly under rap station until crack runs out round via left up to rap station. Take RPs & other brass micro nuts.
Grant Piper 2010
AS Aftershox 18 ,20 75m
2.01
4bolts wire representing trad
Start up apron to ledge, then move up cracks right of the thin crack (Lox) past bolt to DBB.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11840m1Yes
 Start up apron to ledge, then move up cracks right of the thin crack (Lox) past bolt to DBB.
22035m3Yes
 Move right past bolts and into corner to the right of 2nd pitch of Crax. Pro in thin crack (bring your brassys, RPs.) Crack gets bigger furthur up
Grant Piper, Greg Low 2011
Su Sudoku 19 40m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Traverse L-Wards along ledge to single bolt. Start the the climb up the wall to the base of a left facing corner. when the corner gets to thin go up the next corner right for few metres then regain the main Lh facing corner to the top. Twin rope set up is useful.
Kevin Barratt, Grant Piper, Mattias Kerkman.
Cr Copyright 18 35m
2.01
2bolts wire representing trad
Start just left of promontory. Climb past 2 bolts up a L-facing corner using the crack that gets thinner as you ascend the climb.
Greg Low, 2011
T Abit On The Toes 19 30m
0
wire representing trad
A hard start on your toes then eases off towards the top, following crack right of big left facing corner. Left of The Weta the better.
Greg Low 2011
WB The Weta the Better 18 30m
0
wire representing trad
Use right thin crack and part of arete to ascend slab find rap station out to right
Grant Piper 2011
Babylon 17 30m
0
wire representing trad
Just right of TWTB is a very vegetated crack, and immediately right is this shallow groove. Start just to the right below another groove and pull through a small roof on to the wall. At the vegetated ledge move left to join the diagonal crack and climb this, trending right to the groove. Thin moves follow with good protection, mainly from cams, finishing up a crack directly to the TWTB anchor. Abseil cautiously from the badly placed anchor.
Lindsay Main, 2014
Proletarian 17 30m
0
wire representing trad
Just another one – a companion route up the groove immediately right of Babylon. Varied gear including wires and cams. Scramble up to the small roof, pull through and climb the groove. At the top is a bonus hand crack slightly to the right.
Lindsay Main, 2014
Dutch Auction 19 28m
2.01
wire representing trad
Right hand end of crag, up crack to RH facing corner through small overhang near top.
Dave Van der Krabben, 2009

Comments

grubbie's picture

There is some territory for solid trad lines here,.