Babbling Brook Right

Type

Altitude

1200m

Part of

East of Christian Principles Crag are another couple of crags that have recently had ascents on them. Standing at Pinnacles Hut, the crag is the prominent pyramid-shaped crag to the left of C P Crag (Grid Ref 798 310 Methven Map).
Most of the climbs have thin cracks, for gear and thin edges for your feet.
The first known ascent was put up by Greg Jack & Jean Tomkins, which was named Lumberjack.
Crax was assumed the first ascent of the crag but the second ascentionists found out they were not breaking new ground.
Over a few visits, Kevin Barratt, Grant Piper, Dave Van der Krabben & Greg Low, added new climbs to the crag.
Lindsay Main & Hugh Logan, carried on the fine tradition of bagging first ascents.
Best link up; bottom pitch of Lumberjack/ Crax, and top pitch of Aftershox.

Aspect

North

Lat/lon

POINT (171.38672262 -43.61715315)

Topo50

BX20 698 694

Approach

Go to the point on the track where the Pinnacles Hut is first seen (grid ref 799 317). Climb on to the rocky knob uphill from the track.
Drop off knob downhill across grass to upper LHSide where grass meets the scrub. Look for a Cairn and go through scrub (semi-cut track) to dry creek bed.
Go between two big boulders and venture up LH creek bed (true right).
To avoid the bluff/ waterfall leave the creek bed on the LH side once above traverse back right into the creek bed.
When the creek goes left, go straight uphill onto terrace.
Go right into next creek under small waterfall.
There is a few flat sleeping ledges, the “Babbling Brook Biv.”

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
DA	DADave’s Retreat, 18	18	55m		0
P1 18 25m Trad Up twin crack system to ledge. P2 17 30m Trad Up move left around nose up left facing corner, back right onto slab, left to rap station. 50m rap to ground.
c	cLumberjack, 18	18	70m		0
P1 18 45m Trad Start up apron below twin crack system to ledge and then climb the twin crack system to DBB. P2 18 25m Trad Go left from DBB through slightly overhung horizontal strata to top of crag.
C	CCrax, 18	18	70m	3	2.01
P1 18 45m Trad Follow up first pitch of Lumberjack to DBB P2 18 25m 3 Trad Follow bolt around rhs of roof, up to bolted corner, back left to top out up face.
L	LLox, 22	22	45m		1.02
P1 22 45m Trad Up 2 corners right of DR to small ledge, up thin crack directly under rap station until crack runs out round via left up to rap station. Take RPs & other brass micro nuts.
AS	ASAftershox, 20	20	75m	3	2.01
P1 18 40m 1 Trad Start up apron to ledge, then move up cracks right of the thin crack (Lox) past bolt to DBB. P2 20 35m 3 Trad Move right past bolts and into corner to the right of 2nd pitch of Crax. Pro in thin crack (bring your brassys, RPs.) Crack gets bigger furthur up
Su	SuSudoku, 19	19	40m	3	0
P1 19 40m 3 Trad Traverse L-Wards along ledge to single bolt. Start the the climb up the wall to the base of a left facing corner. when the corner gets to thin go up the next corner right for few metres then regain the main Lh facing corner to the top. Twin rope set up is useful.
Cr	CrCopyright, 18	18	35m	2	2.01
P1 18 35m 2 Trad Start just left of promontory. Climb past 2 bolts up a L-facing corner using the crack that gets thinner as you ascend the climb.
T	TAbit On The Toes, 19	19	30m		0
P1 19 30m Trad A hard start on your toes then eases off towards the top, following crack right of big left facing corner. Left of The Weta the better.
WB	WBThe Weta the Better, 18	18	30m		0
P1 18 30m Trad Use right thin crack and part of arete to ascend slab find rap station out to right
	Babylon, 17	17	30m		0
P1 17 30m Trad Just right of TWTB is a very vegetated crack, and immediately right is this shallow groove. Start just to the right below another groove and pull through a small roof on to the wall. At the vegetated ledge move left to join the diagonal crack and climb this, trending right to the groove. Thin moves follow with good protection, mainly from cams, finishing up a crack directly to the TWTB anchor. Abseil cautiously from the badly placed anchor.
	Proletarian, 17	17	30m		0
P1 17 30m Trad Just another one – a companion route up the groove immediately right of Babylon. Varied gear including wires and cams. Scramble up to the small roof, pull through and climb the groove. At the top is a bonus hand crack slightly to the right.
	Dutch Auction, 19	19	28m		2.01
P1 19 28m Trad Right hand end of crag, up crack to RH facing corner through small overhang near top.

Comments

grubbie

content_editor

There is some territory for solid trad lines here,.

Fri, 11/06/2010 - 20:56 Permalink

UUID

7d61b72a-2699-4c45-b48b-371a8307c805