Mao Tse-Tung Buttress

Type

Altitude

600m

Part of

The largest buttress in the area, with most of the routes on the clean rock at the left hand end.

The cliff can be reached by taking the benched track which cuts across the hillside from the ridgeline, then uphill between Martyr and Mainline Cliffs, or by walking further up the ridge and across the hilltop; then dropping down to the north end of the crag.

Walktime

1 hour

Aspect

West

Lat/lon

-43.64444551,172.81525417, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BX24 851 676

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	Megaveggie, 12	12	10m	0
P1 12 10m Trad Start at the foot of the main cliff. On the very LH end of the cliff is a sidewall. Climb gully past dead tree to short corner with bridging finish.
	Wanderwall, 13	13		0
P1 13 Trad Start just R and climb through V feature. Easier variations to the R.
	Great Leap Forward, 16	16	15m	0
P1 16 15m Trad Start by stepping off a block on the left; swing onto the arête round to the crack, and up through a short steep section to easy ground.
ME	MEMao’s Eyebrows, 15	15	15m	0
P1 15 15m Trad Just to the right, hard start with a bush and a bulge at 5m.
BC	BCBlighty Crack, 17	17	20m	0
P1 17 20m Trad Start 3m to the R, on block. Climb the crack which splits at 6m. At the ledge move R, and up.
N	NNumbskull, 18	18	20m	0
P1 18 20m Trad 5m to the R is a crack trending slightly RWs, with bush at its base. Gain crack from the R, follow through bulge to ledge with tussock. Continue up for 2m, then LW to finish.
HO	HOHot Oil, 19	19	30m	2.01
P1 19 30m Trad Climbs the left-facing corner, moving into the L groove above small roof. Hard jamming through final roof.
	The Basalt Columnist, 21	21	35m	2.01
P1 21 35m Trad Start just R of Hot Oil. Climb shallow L-Facing corner/arete, to the LH end of large triangular OH, then follow the flared groove to the large triangular roof on the summit block. Turn this on the R.
BR	BRBull Run, 22	22		1.02
P1 22 Trad The large detached flake that was previously used to start the route has collapsed, but the climb itself seems virtually unchanged. Climb the V-corner past a small triangular roof Move R onto hanging block, up crack to bulge, then move up and R into short groove (crux). Finish up R facing corner of summit block.
AC	ACAll You Need Is Cash, 21	21	30m	0
P1 21 30m Trad Starts 4m right. Climb corner and move right along horizontal crack to below large square-cut prow, then move left and up a black flared corner (crux - strenuous), to triangular block. Move right, and onto easier ground.
ME	MEMade In England, 19	19	35m	2.01
P1 19 35m Trad Start as for previous route. Climb crack up & R under prow to large spike, step R to ledge. Climb flake up & L into overhanging scoop, move out L onto cracked slab and through roof. Climb left leaning hand crack, then any way to top.
Rn	RnRevisionism, 17	17		0
The line is shown incorrectly on the topo - it should continue further up the gully before moving sharply left. P1 17 Trad Start a few metres to the R, and climb through the blocky bulge at 12m to large platform with tree. Up the gully slightly, swing L across a slab (crux). Continue on same line. You can of course finish up the corner of Red Guard Gully.
RGG	RGGRed Guard Gully, 17	17	35m	1.02
P1 17 35m Trad Grade uncertain. Start a few metres to the right at a small right-angle corner, then climb the crack through the roof. From the platform take the main crack in the gully.
Ct	CtChocalot, 23	23	35m	2.01
P1 23 35m Trad The next routes are down and to the R. Superb climbing up the wide overhanging crack with solid chockstones, past flake to roof with crack. Move L (crux) to groove and follow to belay blow the upper cliff. P2 17 Trad Climb the crack in the upper wall between Red Guard Gully and Exile’s return
ER	ERExile’s Return, 21	21	35m	2.01
P1 21 20m Trad Start to the right by flax. Up an overhanging corner, then jam the roof crack out left (crux). Follow crack to the platform. P2 17 15m Trad Finish up the arete in a great position.
	Unholy Alliance, 21	21		2.01
P1 21 Trad A few metres R. This excellent route gives two contrasting pitches, finishing up the bulgy wall R of Exile’s return arete. Climb the corner and LWs crack, through slot to small OH on perfect rock. Follow the flared crack LWs (crux), then up through slot at LH end of large triangular OH.. Follow crack continuation to ramp, and up this for 6m to small ledge below wide slot of darker rock. P2 20 Trad Climb slot to RWs rising break, then over a small bulge (poor gear crack on L) to a break (cams). Up to a short layback crack, then make crux move up and R to good holds and easier ground.
	Chinese Burn, 24	24		2.01
P1 24 Trad Start below the obvious corner around to the R (line of The Great Pr…etc) Climb a short way up that route, then move L into a crack. Follow a short way, then move up and L past left leaning crack. Traverse L under overlap to skyline notch on arete, and belay. P2 18 Trad Climb ramp, then up a flared corner.
	The Great Proletarian Cultural Revolution, 16	16	40m	0
P1 16 40m Trad The obvious corner/gully to the right, with a small broadleaf about 10 metres up. The last 10 metres has been affected by pillars moving in the earthquakes, and the current finish is sightly to the left, up a narrow corner.
	Chinese Whispers, 21	21	50m	1.02
P1 21 50m Trad Start a few metres R. Climb twin cracks and round the R of tree. Up twin cracks on L, then move R (care with blocks) and up an entertaining layback/jam crack to ledge. Up short wall to pillar, then either finish as for TGPCR, or climb the OH behind the pillar (19), and steep groove/slot.
	Tree Route, 17	17	60m	0
P1 17 60m Trad Start well down and to the R, where there is a corner with trees, and a wide crack to the R. Climb tree to this crack, move a short distance then L to tree in corner. Up corner to clean rock, then move out L to arete. Continue down and L over slab to large ledge. P2 17 Trad Climb up weakness behind ledge, then up and L along line of least resistance to large flake. Move L across black slab, for more treework, or climb the rock, finishing R to rock. P3 13 Trad Up wide crack, leading to a large grassy area below the upper tier, The Yak Pasture.

Comments

UUID

1e8e1ce1-06a8-4633-abef-e561559bb414