Mao Tse-Tung Buttress

(20 routes)

The largest buttress in the area, with most of the routes on the clean rock at the left hand end.

The cliff can be reached by taking the benched track which cuts across the hillside from the ridgeline, then uphill between Martyr and Mainline Cliffs, or by walking further up the ridge and across the hilltop; then dropping down to the north end of the crag.

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
600m
Aspect: 
West
Walk time: 
1 hour
Lat/Lon: 
-43.644445510000, 172.815254170000
NZMS260: 
N36 951 292
Topo50: 
BX24 851 676
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Megaveggie 12 10m
0
wire representing trad
Start at the foot of the main cliff. On the very LH end of the cliff is a sidewall. Climb gully past dead tree to short corner with bridging finish.
Paul Bingham, 2000
Wanderwall 13
0
wire representing trad
Start just R and climb through V feature. Easier variations to the R.
Nigel Harrison & Alan Hill. 2000
Great Leap Forward 16 15m
0
wire representing trad
Start by stepping off a block on the left; swing onto the arête round to the crack, and up through a short steep section to easy ground.
Henry Mares, 1977
ME Mao’s Eyebrows 15 15m
0
wire representing trad
Just to the right, hard start with a bush and a bulge at 5m.
Lindsay Main, 1977
BC Blighty Crack 17 20m
0
wire representing trad
Start 3m to the R, on block. Climb the crack which splits at 6m. At the ledge move R, and up.
Alan Hill, 2000
N Numbskull 18 20m
0
wire representing trad
5m to the R is a crack trending slightly RWs, with bush at its base. Gain crack from the R, follow through bulge to ledge with tussock. Continue up for 2m, then LW to finish.
Grant Piper, 2001
HO Hot Oil 19 30m
2.01
wire representing trad
Climbs the left-facing corner, moving into the L groove above small roof. Hard jamming through final roof.
John Howard, 1979
The Basalt Columnist 21 35m
2.01
wire representing trad
Start just R of Hot Oil. Climb shallow L-Facing corner/arete, to the LH end of large triangular OH, then follow the flared groove to the large triangular roof on the summit block. Turn this on the R.
Alan Hill, 2001
BR Bull Run 22
1.02
wire representing trad
The large detached flake that was previously used to start the route has collapsed, but the climb itself seems virtually unchanged. Climb the V-corner past a small triangular roof Move R onto hanging block, up crack to bulge, then move up and R into short groove (crux). Finish up R facing corner of summit block.
Alan Hill, 2001
AC All You Need Is Cash 21 30m
0
wire representing trad
Starts 4m right. Climb corner and move right along horizontal crack to below large square-cut prow, then move left and up a black flared corner (crux - strenuous), to triangular block. Move right, and onto easier ground.
Richard Kimberley, 2002
ME Made In England 19 35m
2.01
wire representing trad
Start as for previous route. Climb crack up & R under prow to large spike, step R to ledge. Climb flake up & L into overhanging scoop, move out L onto cracked slab and through roof. Climb left leaning hand crack, then any way to top.
Alan Hill & Nigel Harrison (alts) 2000
Rn Revisionism 17
0
wire representing trad
The line is shown incorrectly on the topo - it should continue further up the gully before moving sharply left.
Henry Mares, 1977
RGG Red Guard Gully 17 35m
1.02
wire representing trad
Grade uncertain. Start a few metres to the right at a small right-angle corner, then climb the crack through the roof. From the platform take the main crack in the gully.
Lindsay Main, 1978
Ct Chocalot 23 ,17 35m
2.01
wire representing trad
The next routes are down and to the R. Superb climbing up the wide overhanging crack with solid chockstones, past flake to roof with crack. Move L (crux) to groove and follow to belay blow the upper cliff.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12335mYes
 The next routes are down and to the R. Superb climbing up the wide overhanging crack with solid chockstones, past flake to roof with crack. Move L (crux) to groove and follow to belay blow the upper cliff.
2170mYes
 Climb the crack in the upper wall between Red Guard Gully and Exile’s return
Richard Kimberley & Alan Hill, 2002
ER Exile’s Return 21 ,17 35m
2.01
wire representing trad
Start to the right by flax. Up an overhanging corner, then jam the roof crack out left (crux). Follow crack to the platform.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12120mYes
 Start to the right by flax. Up an overhanging corner, then jam the roof crack out left (crux). Follow crack to the platform.
21715mYes
 Finish up the arete in a great position.
Lindsay Main, 1978
Unholy Alliance 21 ,20
2.01
wire representing trad
A few metres R. This excellent route gives two contrasting pitches, finishing up the bulgy wall R of Exile’s return arete. Climb the corner and LWs crack, through slot to small OH on perfect rock. Follow the flared crack LWs (crux), then up through slot at LH end of large triangular OH.. Follow crack continuation to ramp, and up this for 6m to small ledge below wide slot of darker rock.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1210mYes
 A few metres R. This excellent route gives two contrasting pitches, finishing up the bulgy wall R of Exile’s return arete. Climb the corner and LWs crack, through slot to small OH on perfect rock. Follow the flared crack LWs (crux), then up through slot at LH end of large triangular OH.. Follow crack continuation to ramp, and up this for 6m to small ledge below wide slot of darker rock.
2200mYes
 Climb slot to RWs rising break, then over a small bulge (poor gear crack on L) to a break (cams). Up to a short layback crack, then make crux move up and R to good holds and easier ground.
Alan Hill and Richard Kimberley (alternate leads) 2002
Chinese Burn 24 ,18
2.01
wire representing trad
Start below the obvious corner around to the R (line of The Great Pr…etc) Climb a short way up that route, then move L into a crack. Follow a short way, then move up and L past left leaning crack. Traverse L under overlap to skyline notch on arete, and belay.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1240mYes
 Start below the obvious corner around to the R (line of The Great Pr…etc) Climb a short way up that route, then move L into a crack. Follow a short way, then move up and L past left leaning crack. Traverse L under overlap to skyline notch on arete, and belay.
2180mYes
 Climb ramp, then up a flared corner.
Richard Kimberley and Alan Hill 2002
The Great Proletarian Cultural Revolution 16 40m
0
wire representing trad
The obvious corner/gully to the right, with a small broadleaf about 10 metres up. The last 10 metres has been affected by pillars moving in the earthquakes, and the current finish is sightly to the left, up a narrow corner.
Lindsay Main, 1977
Chinese Whispers 21 50m
1.02
wire representing trad
Start a few metres R. Climb twin cracks and round the R of tree. Up twin cracks on L, then move R (care with blocks) and up an entertaining layback/jam crack to ledge. Up short wall to pillar, then either finish as for TGPCR, or climb the OH behind the pillar (19), and steep groove/slot.
FA 27/5/00 Alan Hill & Frazer Munro (alts) with 1 POA
Tree Route 17 ,17 ,13 60m
0
wire representing trad
Start well down and to the R, where there is a corner with trees, and a wide crack to the R. Climb tree to this crack, move a short distance then L to tree in corner. Up corner to clean rock, then move out L to arete. Continue down and L over slab to large ledge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11760mYes
 Start well down and to the R, where there is a corner with trees, and a wide crack to the R. Climb tree to this crack, move a short distance then L to tree in corner. Up corner to clean rock, then move out L to arete. Continue down and L over slab to large ledge.
2170mYes
 Climb up weakness behind ledge, then up and L along line of least resistance to large flake. Move L across black slab, for more treework, or climb the rock, finishing R to rock.
3130mYes
 Up wide crack, leading to a large grassy area below the upper tier, The Yak Pasture.
Martin Gledhill & Alan Hill, 2001
UUID: 
1e8e1ce1-06a8-4633-abef-e561559bb414