Skip to main content

Unholy Alliance

Natural pro required
First ascent
Alan Hill and Richard Kimberley (alternate leads) 2002

  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

A few metres R. This excellent route gives two contrasting pitches, finishing up the bulgy wall R of Exile’s return arete. Climb the corner and LWs crack, through slot to small OH on perfect rock. Follow the flared crack LWs (crux), then up through slot at LH end of large triangular OH.. Follow crack continuation to ramp, and up this for 6m to small ledge below wide slot of darker rock.

  • P2
  • 20
  • Trad

Climb slot to RWs rising break, then over a small bulge (poor gear crack on L) to a break (cams). Up to a short layback crack, then make crux move up and R to good holds and easier ground.