Multi-pitch routes

(2 routes)

This is a collection of pillars, slabs, and vegetated ledges that can be linked to give a climbs over 100 metres in length – easily the longest climbs on Banks Peninsula or in lowland Canterbury. The routes are accessed from the main lower track. Pioneer Ridge has its own side track branching off from a patch of bush.

North East
Walk time: 
30 min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
RTP The Road To Perdition 17,19,15,16 107m
A four-pitch route on the left side of the buttress giving a route of about 105 metres. The lower track passes right below the base of the route.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
 Start at the left margin of the buttress, with good small incuts leading to the edge and easier moves. After three bolts the climbing eases and it’s scrambly to the anchor just above a ledge. Note: This pitch is more than 30 metres, so you can’t abseil it if you don’t have a rope that’s a full 60 metres.
 Tricky moves off the ledge past the anchor; then up more easily to a small ledge below the slab on the left side of the arete. Balance up the slab (crux) and move on to the arete, then up and left across the V-gully to the short but awkward overhang. Small holds give way to jugs at the lip with a bolt just above. Pull through and walk left through the flax to the anchors. The original anchor on the left has regular hangers, but another anchor two metres to the right and hidden around the pillar is suitable for abseiling. This was added to enable cleaning the route on abseil.
 The last two pitches have only three bolts each, but these are positioned at the hard bits and the terrain between is generally very easy. Walk across the big ledge to the short wall and pull up past the bolt into the niche. Reach up to clip the second bolt and balance up onto the rounded arete; then carefully up the small arete to the anchor.
 Step up past the hollow caves and scramble on to the arete at the first bolt. Up to the ledge and tricky step up above (crux). Up through the scrub to a vegetated chimney; pull up moving left to the anchor.
George Gerard, Lindsay Main, 2018.
PR Pioneer Ridge 17,18,14,19,13 115m
36bolts wire representing trad
Access the base of the route from the main lower track via a short branch that heads straight up in a small patch of bush where the main track continues left. Alternatively abseil the route from the anchor station on the ridge. Each pitch has its own name, and pitches may be linked differently in future to provide more variations. Having climbed the route it is possible to link to the routes on the small pillar just up the ridge, by walking down the gully to its base, or along the ridge a short distance and abseiling.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
 Left Side Start at the toe of the buttress left of the smooth section and trend left on to the rib. Crux just above third bolt, after which it eases back with good holds.
 Step Across Boulder up from the double ring anchors and then along the ridge a short way, then traversing right above a small roof, step across right and then easily up, before stepping across right again just above the small overlap (crux – there is a harder variation that steps across right higher up) and then up the rib on the right (delicate) to the double bolt anchors.
 Easy Wall Scramble over easy ground onto the featured wall and straight up on good holds to the double bolt anchor.
 Long Slab From the double bolt anchor belay traverse directly left fairly easily (there is a useful bolt) to the big flat area at the base of the slab. Then either follow the bolts straight up the slab (crux at the bottom - 19/20). Alternatively, follow the groove on the right and stretch across to clip the bolts, stepping onto the left rib of the slab and up (18?). If neither of these options suits there is an easier alternate start by scrambling along the rib above the belay and starting up the long slab higher up using the upper bolts (crux 15).
 Egg Shell Note that this pitch requires natural protection. From the double bolt anchor at the top of Long Slab, scramble over big blocks to a wide crack beside a small wall on the left, Using natural pro (cams) for the whole pitch, follow the crack for a few moves, then stepping up onto a featured wall directly to the double bolt anchors at the summit. On this pitch keep close to the left wall. The rock to the right of the crack is very hollow above a big gas pocket – a remarkable egg shell-like feature that could shatter if abused.
Joe Arts, Hugh Logan, 2018.