OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.Devil’s Gap, Dragon Crags and Dragons Lair are only open at weekends and on public holidays. You must register for each coming weekend by 7pm the Friday before. Full details are here.
This variant of Pioneer Ridge offers a harder start to the rib on the fourth pitch, which the more obvious direct route bypasses.
To get to the start of the pitch climb a few metres above the anchor, step around to the left, and climb down a couple of metres past a protection bolt on the small slab. (This is virtually a small pitch in its own right). From the expansive ledge climb the rib directly or on the left, with the crux moves straight off the ground.