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Never Bet The Devil Your Head

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 13 November 2025, by Richard Thomson.

Devil’s Gap, Dragon Crags and Dragons Lair are only open at weekends and on public holidays. You must register for each coming weekend by 7pm the Friday before. Full details are here.

Grade
17
Length
28m
3
Natural pro required
Quality
0
First ascent
Gabriel Lincourt, 2006
Located on

  • P1
  • 17
  • 28m
  • 3
  • Trad

Climb the narrow black chimney groove, and exit up and right to the first bolt. Alternating between natural gear (out left above the 1st bolt is a hidden cam slot) and 2 more bolts, continue up over the wide ledge and past the black left leaning corner. Easy to the anchor rings. Pro is good but a little hard to find (micro wires may be helpful).


Comments
ascott

double ring anchor

Sat, 17/03/2012 - 21:04 Permalink
UUID
 
59235da1-fd13-427c-9af5-7a589e5698bf