OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.Devil’s Gap, Dragon Crags and Dragons Lair are only open at weekends and on public holidays. You must register for each coming weekend by 7pm the Friday before. Full details are here.
Natural pro requiredFollows the central rib of the crag. Start up an undercut crack to a ledge, and climb the weakness on the left to step around on to a small exposed platform on the rib. Balance up over the bulge to a ramp on the left; then cruise up easy ground to the steepening wall above (crux), which is best climbed on the left. Then over a block, past a korokia, and finish up the chimney against the big block. Well-protected, especially at the hard bits.