Direct route on East Face of Couloir Peak (2642m). From Cameron Hut, allow 5h for the approach, 7h for the climb, and 7h for the
descent back to the hut.
Approach – Up Cameron Glacier past icefall to glacier confluence (1700m).
Turn left, ascend to 1950m. Then take a right up a steep (50 degree) ice slope to eventually arrive at the base of a prominent corner directly below the summit (2300m). Start 10m right of the main corner.
Pitch 1 (40m, 16) – up crack until under roof (20m). Turn the roof by
traversing left onto the face (crux). Ascend slabs to belay ledge. Good
rock.
Pitch 2 (15m, 15) – up corner to belay ledge
Pitch 3 (40m, 14) - traverse right out of crack and around arête for 10m.
Then up a series of ledges on quality rock
Pitch 4 (40m, 12) – follow cracks up to large ledge
Pitch 5 (35m, 10) – down right into gravel, then ascend loose easy ledges
arriving at a red corner.
Pitch 6 (20m, 12) – right and up to top ledge up crumbly, difficult to
protect, rock. Scary pitch.
Pitch 7 (30m, 15) - traverse left past red corner then up fissure past
detached pillar and around corner
Pitch 8 (45m, 12) – traverse 10m left then directly up. Follow a series of
cracks to wide ledge.
Pitch 9 (100m, 10) – Easy scramble up and right. Simul-climb this pitch
taking care rope drag doesn’t drop loose rock on partner below.
Pitch 10 (100m, 10) – Easy scramble.
From the summit ridge it is a further 100m traverse past af gendarme to the
summit (2642m).
Descent – continue traversing 100m along summit ridge to the SW until at
small col above a steep snow/ice couloir on the TL. Descend this steep
couloir at first (a rap may be required) for 250m (vertical) to a wide
snowfield. Continue along this 600m to the right staying to the west of the
ridge on easy ground, crossing point 2474, and eventually arriving at Cameron
Col (2427m). Cross the Col and traverse a further 200m due south across the
glacier and then carefully turn to descend 700m of steep snow/ice to arrive
back at the glacier confluence (1700m).
- P1
- 16
