Then came a perfect day. We left at 4 a.m. for Strachan, the mecca of the expedition, going up via the Mueller Pass; then south west up the grass and shingle slopes, and thence up the Strachan Glacier. Taking in a snow peak to the south and cutting back over our steps, we finally stood on the summit of Mt Strachan (8559 feet) at 9.15 a.m. It was the one perfect day we had, and it was the finest unclimbed peak of this region, and both were matched by a peerless view. Tier upon tier the serrated ridges rose up one above the other until they culminated in the crowned head of Mount Cook. To the west the blue ocean broke in white breakers on the shore: to the south lay a lovely blue lake; while at our feet the long Landsborough Valley meandered down toward the Haast.
Marie Byles, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1935.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| North East Ridge, 2,II | 2,II | 0m | ||||
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From Mueller Pass gain height up the ridge until a sidle can be made onto the heavily crevassed Strachan Glacier, which is negotiated to the summit.
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| North West Face, 2,III | 2,III | 0m | ||||
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From the upper Edison valley, traverse around Pt 1997m onto the northern slopes of Mt Strachan, then climb over glacier-smoothed rock, north facing snow slopes and a couloir to reach the summit ridge.
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| South Ridge, 2,III | 2,III | 0m | ||||
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From the Landsborough, climb the spur on the true right of Zora Creek through bush and negotiate cliffs to a tarn-studded shelf at 920m. From here, climb to Pt 1953m and
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