Glengyle Pk

(4 routes)

Glengyle is an impressive sight from Aspiring Hut, although it is in fact little more than a bump on the South Ridge of Rob Roy. The crags and towers of Glengyle are sometimes mistakenly called the Cathedral Peaks, however that name was originally applied to all peaks between Bevan and Glengyle on the northeast side of the West Matukituki.

-44.466948000000, 168.705072000000
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
The South Ridge. II 2
Climb to the ridge by way of a clearing through the bush, across the river and slightly downstream from Wilson’s Camp. From the crest of the ridge cross into a basin on the west side of the South Ridge of Rob Roy and traverse across this into a second basin to reach the foot of a mixed snow and rock ridge leading to the summit. The climb requires about 10 hours from Cascade Hut to the summit and a bivvy high on the slopes opposite Wilson’s Camp would be desirable.
Ernie Smith, Brian Hill, Bob Fullerton, Les Buddicom, Don Divers, George Edwards, and Russell Edwards, Dec 1934.
The West Face. II 2
There appears to be no problem in forcing a route up through steep bush into the snow tussock basins below the peak, from where there are a variety of interesting looking rock routes to the summit.
A direct ascent was made from Aspiring Hut in seven hours by Jim Millson, Feb 1976.
West Face. Following Dave. II 3
Access from terminal moraine under Rob Roy.
Dave Fearnley, Geoff Wayatt & followers, Jan 1978.
South Face Central Gully 4-
5 pitches with zilch gear up the snowy middle of the face. Some short near vertical steps mostly 50+ degrees and ok. Tricky to get to summit along ridge
Alexis Belton, Jaz Morris, September 2013
Allan Uren & John Cocks