From Dart Glacier

This route gives access to the upper basin of the Dart Glacier, where easy crevassed slopes lead up to the peak. The once easy slopes immediately east of the icefall are now generally impassable due to glacial recession. The route to the west of the icefall ascends an avalanche gully until level with a broad ledge which is reached by traversing across steep shingle. This route is threatened by avalanche in early summer. The icefall has been descended on skis in winter during the early 1990s but that may have been an exception. From Cascade Saddle Route is a much more direct approach to Liverpool.