Natural pro required
Milo Gilmour, Llewellyn Murdock January 2013
East Face of Mt Awful; the first 3 pitches follow a left facing sickle shaped
formation on the face, about 3/4 across from the left.
- (19, 50m) Start by single bolt, climb slab via thin crack to a right
trending ramp that leads to the left facing corner (sickle handle) follow
this vertically for 50m to anchor.
- (18, 50m) continue up corner crack (18) until it leans back into a series
of right trending flakes (16) follow these to anchor.
- (20, 45m) climb corner above anchor, or flakes just left of anchor, to
gain 3 bolt runners where flakes are suspect. Continue up good flakes
slightly left of corner to anchor just under overhang.
- (21, 30m) Under-cling crack going left (to the tip of the sickle blade),
then up and right slightly, up more flakes to ledge going left to a shallow
corner. Up this to level of single bolt, step right and then difficult step
up (21?) to gain under-clings going right.
- (20,30m) Step up and left of anchor through small overhang (20), up blunt
arête and leftwards to avoid large hanging flakes, step right above these
flakes, then up rightward facing flakes on easier ground to anchor.
- (20, 56m) Follow left leaning corner system to a single bolt. Thin face
moves out right gain an under-cling crack going right and then step up again
at first opportunity before grass, follow cracks and flakes directly upwards
to anchor on a ledge.
- (17, 45m) Up and across grassy ledge to a wide crack, pull round
overhang/nose into off-width which becomes chimney. Turn and step onto
slabs, five bolts point towards anchor.
- (21, 45m) Up corner crack from ledge (19) to top of pedestal, continue
upwards on thin crack to a rightward traverse on quartz seam and smeary feet,
then up and right to right facing corner, and step left onto arête and up
face to anchor. 6 bolts and good natural pro.
- (16, 10m) Move right to obvious crack, beware loose edges until that.
Then up to ridge, beware loose rocks on top. There is a rap anchor on ridge
to abseil off.
- Alpine (Technical) 5
- Alpine (Commitment) III