East Face

Climb the large, right-facing dihedral, one corner system to the left of "The Weta Walk". This dihedral climbs mostly mediocre rock with very limited protection for 8 pitches before joining the right side of the uppermost snowfield seen in the picture. Descend via the South East Ridge.

This nine pitch route climbs out of the snowfield at the bottom left hand side of the face via a four pitch arête at about grade 17. This arête forms the side of a gut which can often be choked with snow or have a waterfall running down it. From the top of this arête head right up a narrow ledge which can have snow on it. This ledge takes you into the middle of the face and into a corner topped by a small roof. A good crack system takes you around the roof and then up into open country. There is a sting in the tail to this route in the form of a small overlap which is the crux. A piton driven in upside down protected the moves through this overlap, but small cams would probably be better. Two more technical pitches follow and then the face finishes at the summit after a section of scrambling on loose but not horrific rock.

This is a great looking 11-pitch route taking in some well-protected climbing in a stunning setting.

East Face of Mt Awful; the first 3 pitches follow a left facing sickle shaped formation on the face, about 3/4 across from the left. 1. (19, 50m) Start by single bolt, climb slab via thin crack to a right trending ramp that leads to the left facing corner (sickle handle) follow this vertically for 50m to anchor. 2. (18, 50m) continue up corner crack (18) until it leans back into a series of right trending flakes (16) follow these to anchor. 3. (20, 45m) climb corner above anchor, or flakes just left of anchor, to gain 3 bolt runners where flakes are suspect. Continue up good flakes slightly left of corner to anchor just under overhang. 4. (21, 30m) Under-cling crack going left (to the tip of the sickle blade), then up and right slightly, up more flakes to ledge going left to a shallow corner. Up this to level of single bolt, step right and then difficult step up (21?) to gain under-clings going right. 5. (20,30m) Step up and left of anchor through small overhang (20), up blunt arête and leftwards to avoid large hanging flakes, step right above these flakes, then up rightward facing flakes on easier ground to anchor. 6. (20, 56m) Follow left leaning corner system to a single bolt. Thin face moves out right gain an under-cling crack going right and then step up again at first opportunity before grass, follow cracks and flakes directly upwards to anchor on a ledge. 7. (17, 45m) Up and across grassy ledge to a wide crack, pull round overhang/nose into off-width which becomes chimney. Turn and step onto slabs, five bolts point towards anchor. 8. (21, 45m) Up corner crack from ledge (19) to top of pedestal, continue upwards on thin crack to a rightward traverse on quartz seam and smeary feet, then up and right to right facing corner, and step left onto arête and up face to anchor. 6 bolts and good natural pro. 9. (16, 10m) Move right to obvious crack, beware loose edges until that. Then up to ridge, beware loose rocks on top. There is a rap anchor on ridge to abseil off.

1. (16,45m) First pitch follows rightward curving crack to first terrace, and then follows corner and flakes to convenient small ledge. 2. (17, 50m) More or less straight up following flakes aiming for base of corner. Belay on top of large flake. 3. (20, 50m) Follow the obvious main crack leading to the corner above. Good laybacking and bridging using large cams (#5). 4. (21/22, 45m) Continue up wide crack and undercling rightwards to its conclusion. Strenuous laybacking at the top. Large cams again. 5. Either scramble loose easy ground rightwards to ridge to exit, or rap off down the existing route you just climbed. 5.