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Mt Bevan

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Bevan is not so much a climb as a glorious viewpoint. Still it is in the greater alps and not to be taken lightly. It was the scene of one of the most protracted and gruelling rescues in the region, a five day ordeal for a dozen men trapped on Bevan Col. The whole story can be read in the classic book Men Aspiring by Paul Powell.
The peak was first climbed by Dennis Leigh, Bill Walker, and Jock Sim, who filled in the rest of their afternoon after their first ascent of Avalanche on December 28, 1939 by racing down the Bonar to Bevan Col and on to Bevan, before returning to French Ridge via the Quarterdeck that evening.

POINT (168.685872 -44.391727)
CA11 564 756
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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 From Bevan Col, I,1 I,1

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 1

From Bevan Col easy snow and broken rock slopes lead direct to the summit. Tempting ledges leading around on to the North Face terminate on exposed rock and should be avoided by parties more interested in the view. The climb is unlikely to take more than an hour from the col.

 North Ridge, I,1+ I,1+ 0m

The ridge is gained from gravelly ledges leading up from the Bonar just above the icefall. Then a slabby ridge is followed which is straightforward although quite exposed, with a few small towers towards the top. The ridge takes about two hours, with five hours being necessary for the round trip from Colin Todd Hut.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 1+

 South West Ridge, I,1 I,1 0m

From Hector Col the South West Ridge is a straightforward mixed rock and snow climb, probably requiring about two hours from the col to the summit. Hector Col is reached using the Bevan Col route.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 1

Allan Uren & John Cocks