Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chaos Theory, 19,A2 | 19,A2 | 830m |  |
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| Gods of Chaos, 20 | 20 | 610m | 1 |
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Excellent climbing on quality schist for approximately 600 meters, first ascent was done in a day, including the approach. Access via the Beans Burn valley, there are approximately 150 meters of polished slabs to scrable up to access the base of the route.
Trend right up runout slabs.
Wander up slabs above belay.
Climb right off the belay, up a thin seam and the face above, belay under roof the the right.
Move left from the belay across the blank slab then head up the offwidth corner, belay 10m above the corner.
Climb left from the belay and break through the two roofs via the line of least resistance, climb slabs up to belay on a good stance.
Approximately 180 meters of easy broken climbing with a couple of rap bolts.
From the bolt above the last gravel band head left into the obvious corner.
Head up from the belay then trend left under the overhang.
Head left from the ledge up corners and slabs. |
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| Butterfly Effect, 24 | 24 | 320m | 11 |
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Single Rack to #4 All anchors equipped with DBAs. And single ring at 30m rap points.
Move left onto slab for first bolt
The Roof Pitch
Short and punchy, harder if you stay of grass
Chimney
Tricky moves off the belay into steep juggy terrain
Shallow corner, exit right
Trickery off the belay, technical sustained climbing to the anchor
climb up to small roof, move left then back right onto face.
Rightward traverse easy terrain
50m of glorious red schist
move left off belay up ledges then ramble through blocky terrain clipping 3 bolts as you go. |
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| Too Many Cunts in the Kitchen, III,3+ | III,3+ | 0m | |||||
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There was too much chaos on the mountain, so first ascensionists left to complete the first full ascent of the East Face in summer.
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Images
