Skip to main content

Area A

Type
Face
Part of
Humboldt Mountains
Approach

To reach the ice routes at Area A, walk approximately 3 hours from the main carpark, past the Routeburn Flats Hut and up the Route Burn North Branch.
On the True Right of the North Branch of the river, opposite the climbs, there is a great dry rock bivy. From the bivy to the base of the routes it's approximately 20 minutes walk. These routes can be done in a day trip from Queenstown and are on the west buttress of Mt Somnus, to the right hand side of the main gully.

Accessed from
Route Burn
Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
A1 A1Mid Winter Christmas, WI3,M5 WI3,M5 0m
0
  • P1
  • Water Ice WI3
  • Mixed M5

WI3+, M5. 9 Pitches. Start up the ice smear right of the main gully, before traversing back left at the end of pitch 3. Continue up the obvious corner system and ice lines to the top of the buttress.
A2 A2Somnolence, WI3,M4 WI3,M4 0m
1.02

Protected with mostly ice screws and some rock pieces - hexes and pitons were
great.

  • P1
  • Water Ice WI3
  • Mixed M4

WI3+, M4. 3 Pitches. Direct start to MWC following the obvious gully from the base.
A3 A3Un-named, WI3 WI3 30m
0
  • P1
  • Water Ice WI3
  • 30m

Single pitch ice route on the right hand side of the main gulley. There are plenty of further oppurtunities for more short ice routes to be climbed on either side of the gulley.

Images

Comments
UUID
 
770cdb71-fd09-417b-bcfc-5404c1128035