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Stargazer is the highest of the Haast Range peaks. Until December 17, 1935, when it was climbed by Harry Stevenson, Doug Dick, Stewart Ombler, Scott Gilkison, and Jim Dawson the peak reigned as the elusive virgin of the Otago mountains.

POINT (168.71934362 -44.34129196)
CA11 588 813
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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 East Face, III,2+ III,2+

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

Climb to the top of Shipowner Ridge and cross the snow saddle leading to the Therma Névé. Traverse on moderately steep snow beneath the rocky eastern faces of Rolling Pin, Mainroyal and Skyscraper to reach the heavily crevassed slopes leading up to the ridge near the centre of the Skyscraper-Stargazer massif. The schrunds under this face may prove difficult, as they appear to have become more pronounced in recent years. The ridge is gained a few metres south of the summit and easy snow leads to the top. The face may also be reached by crossing the Skyscraper-Mainroyal Col from the west. A schrund on the east side of the col is sometimes awkward. In good snow conditions the climb should take about six hours from the hut to the summit.

 West Ridge, III,3 III,3

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

From Colin Todd Hut cross the Iso and Dipso Glaciers at about the same height as the hut and follow a steep snow lead up to a level section on the West Ridge, about 300 metres below the summit. The steep rock ridge is then followed, with the more difficult moves occurring on its lower sections. Near the top, the ridge peters out and it may be necessary to move out on to the face to the south to gain the summit ridge, six to seven hours out from the hut.

Allen Uren & John Cocks