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North West Ridge

Located on

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2

Traverse the Iso and Dipso Glaciers to the west ridge of Stargazer, which is crossed immediately below two prominent rock steps. The North Face of this ridge is descended by a series of snow gullies and the ridge then followed down about 400m on slopes of snow tussock, until a narrow shelf of snow tussock leads around into the cirque below the North West Face of Stargazer. As the ledge is followed north it becomes broad and sloping and an unpleasant slabby gut has to be crossed before the cirque is reached. From the cirque a snow spur leads out to a broad, gently sloping bench that runs below Spike and continues to the North West ridge of Moonraker. The North West Ridge consists of a short snow climb and 20m of easy rock. The peak is a long way from Colin Todd Hut and requires a bivvy, perhaps on the north side of the West Ridge of Stargazer.