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From Shepherds Pass descend to the Frances Glacier and cross this to the West Ridge. Sidle round to the North Face, climbing this to the nick above the gendarme from where the northwest ridge is followed to the summit. The Frances Glacier can also be easily reached from the Bedford Valley which provides a pleasant alternative from Wright Col to the sidle round the side of Leary. The North Face has been ascended all the way to the summit and a party has climbed right over the gendarme on the northwest ridge.