Area A

(3 routes)

Face (Alpine)

To reach the ice routes at Area A, walk approximately 3 hours from the main carpark, past the Routeburn Flats Hut and up the North Branch of the Routeburn.
On the True Right of the North Branch of the river, opposite the climbs, there is a great dry rock bivy. From the bivy to the base of the routes it's approximately 20 minutes walk. These routes can be done in a day trip from Queenstown and are on the west buttress of Mt Somnus, to the right hand side of the main gully.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
A1 Mid Winter Christmas WI3 M5
WI3+, M5. 9 Pitches. Start up the ice smear right of the main gully, before traversing back left at the end of pitch 3. Continue up the obvious corner system and ice lines to the top of the buttress.
Andrew Finnigan, Julian Webster, 2010.
A2 Somnolence WI3 M4
Protected with mostly ice screws and some rock pieces - hexes and pitons were great.
Rob Frost, Scott Blackford Scheele, July 2010.
A3 Un-named WI3 30m
Single pitch ice route on the right hand side of the main gulley. There are plenty of further oppurtunities for more short ice routes to be climbed on either side of the gulley.
Rupert Gardiner, Thierry Thouvard, John Burrows, 2012.