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Emily Pk

Type
Mountain
Altitude
1815m
Part of
Ailsa Mountains

Emily Peak can be reached from either the Routeburn Flats, Lake Mackenzie, or the head of Fraser Creek.

Lat/lon
-44.74533116,168.20493221, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
CB09 204 341
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 North West Ridge, II,1 II,1 0m
0

From the Emily Creek bridge on the Routeburn track follow the straight rocky gully to the southwest. This is the furthest true left gully of several creeks shown on the map that join Emily Creek above the bridge. Straightforward boulder travel leads to the 1200m contour. Here, leave the stream and sidle into the snowgrass basin, climbing to Emily Pass (1607m), the northern of two rocky guts right of Emily Peak.
From Lake McKenzie travel to Emily Pass is straightforward via "Split Rock Track" and then gravelbeds on the true left.
Head up from Emily Pass towards the wall of the North West Ridge, at which point a proper rock climb ensues. The technical difficulty is low, but the exposure can be as much as 200m+ and isn't for the inexperienced or faint hearted without rope. The rock can be loose and rock fall is heard frequently on the surrounding peaks.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Technical) 1
 Wuthering Heights (West Face), 16 16 0m
0
  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

Goes to the left of the right skyline. It is about grade 16. But on very compact rock with few anchors. The west face has tonnes of potential for other, harder, routes but it would need bolts as there are few opportunities for gear. The rock is simply stunning.
 East Ridge, I,1 I,1 0m
0

From the Emily Creek bridge on the Routeburn track follow the straight rocky gully to the southwest. This is the furthest true left gully of several creeks shown on the map that join Emily Creek above the bridge. Straightforward boulder travel leads to the 1200m contour. Here, leave the stream and sidle into the snowgrass basin, climbing to the col at 1544 metres (Fraser Col). From the col follow the ridge to the summit.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 1
Comments
Attribution
Photo: Neil Sloan
UUID
 
45c57c50-137e-4615-b196-af37e1be635d