Grade
IV,4,12
Length
0m
0
Natural pro requiredQuality
First ascent
J Dempster & A Gillespie
Located on
This route has had several ascents over the past decade; though its first
ascentionists have not been recorded. Climb to the head of Harper Creek and
head towards the basin below the northeast side of the peak. Ascend a rock
slab on far left, which leads to the main North East Ridge. From here the
ridge steepens to a short 10–15m pitch (crux). Above is a nice red arete,
which is followed until broader, easier ground, to loose rock for the final
50–80m to the summit. Descend the North Ridge.
- P1
- 12
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- Alpine (Technical) 4
- Trad
Comments
UUID
be86ba28-0924-49be-a859-dbbcc21b12e8
Also, we did two pitches. One at the crux (visible in profile photo where ridge steepens near center) veering right on thin gear. Then one long safety pitch on the right hand of the buttress with easy climbing but poor rock. You may choose to stay on the ridge proper. From there we scrambled to the top. You could find some extra pitches staying on the ridge / slightly left nearer the top, or walk right a little to join the last little bit of the north ridge.
Descended via "normal route" ie west ridge. See comments there.
Scrambled all the way up to the crux which is about half way up (couldn't find good anchor option once on main ridge)
Found the crux to be more 14/15.
The crux had good rock but in general was no better than the rest of arthurs pass.