Normal Route

Type: 
Alpine
Description: 
Usually climbed from the old Greenlaw Hut site, by ascending the spur between Greenlaw and Harper Creeks to the snowfield below the peak. The col at the head of the snowfield, north of the peak, gives good access to the North Ridge.
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
110mNo
Grade: 
1
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
R E Chester, R E McInnes, H C Wickett, 23 April 1930

Comments

The North Ridge looked straightforward but access from the col looked trickier than expected. We didn't have time to attempt the ridge but would probably have used a rope for the initial access due to the steepness and amount of loose rock. Likewise we would consider abseiling down from the ridge to the col if descending from other routes (a single 30m abseil would probably be sufficient).
That said, it may have been easier than it looked or perhaps we missed the obvious way up.

Since my last comment, I've descended down the North Ridge after climbing one of the buttresses (I highly recommended the buttress climbs).
The ridge itself is complete choss and not worth the climb in my opinion. It does however provide an easy descent route.
The access on/off the ridge turned out to be much better than it initially looked from the col. Access to the ridge was easily gained approximately 50m down from the col (on the Eastern side) via an easy and short scramble from the snow basin up excellent quality rock to a small terrace. From the terrace it is easy to make it onto the ridge.
I can’t recommend the buttress climbs enough. The guidebook is not exaggerating when it says some of the best quality rock in the park. Some of the rock was much better than any I have seen elsewhere in the park.