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Mt Kain

Type
Altitude
2670m

The companion peak to Mt Abel, 400m along the range towards Mt Annan. Conrad Kain was a prolific guide during the first decades of the twentieth century, completing more than 40 first ascents in New Zealand. Mt Kain hosts some good quality, accessible routes on Kelman Buttress. These short but steep routes provide some fun climbing and are a good place for practising skills close to Kelman Hut.

Lat/lon
POINT (170.358038 -43.522228)
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 East Ridge, 3,II 3,II
0

Without snow, this is probably the worst climb you could possibly do in the region. A steep and exposed scramble on awful rock. It might be okay in winter or spring with show on it. What were Clarke and Earle thinking?


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Commitment) II

 Raising Kain, 17,5,I 17,5,I 180m
1.02

Climbs directly up the full height arete opposite Kelman Hut. First climbed in six pitches. Descend by abseiling the route, or by abseil using the fixed anchors on Zero Politics.


  • P1
  • 17
  • Alpine (Technical) 5
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • 180m

 Zero Politics, 15,4,I 15,4,I
0

The next arete right of Raising Kain terminates on a shelf at half height. Climb this arete, cross the shelf and then up the prominent corner immediately right of Raising Kain. Has been bolted to allow 30m abseils (Nick Cradock, 2013).


  • P1
  • 15
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) I

 The Gift, 3+,II 3+,II 180m
0

Climbs mixed ground in the corner system to the right of the Zero Politics buttress. Descend Zero Politics.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • 180m

 West Ridge, 1+,I 1+,I
0

A straightforward ascent from the Annan-Kain col. First ascent unknown.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 1+
  • Alpine (Commitment) I

Comments
Attribution
Murray Ball
UUID
 
e0615510-e1f2-4d47-837f-23849d6fd4e5