Mt Kain

(5 routes)

The companion peak to Mt Abel, 400m along the range towards Mt Annan. Conrad Kain was a prolific guide during the first decades of the twentieth century, completing more than 40 first ascents in New Zealand. Mt Kain hosts some good quality, accessible routes on Kelman Buttress. These short but steep routes provide some fun climbing and are a good place for practising skills close to Kelman Hut.

-43.522228000000, 170.358038000000
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
East Ridge II 3
Without snow, this is probably the worst climb you could possibly do in the region. A steep and exposed scramble on awful rock. It might be okay in winter or spring with show on it. What were Clarke and Earle thinking?
Jack Clarke, Laurence Earle, February 1910
Raising Kain I 5 17 180m
Climbs directly up the full height arete opposite Kelman Hut. First climbed in six pitches. Descend by abseiling the route, or by abseil using the fixed anchors on Zero Politics.
Murray Ball, Tom Walker, December 2011
Zero Politics I 4 15
The next arete right of Raising Kain terminates on a shelf at half height. Climb this arete, cross the shelf and then up the prominent corner immediately right of Raising Kain. Has been bolted to allow 30m abseils (Nick Cradock, 2013).
Murray Ball Nick Morgan, Reza, December 2004
The Gift II 3+ 180m
Climbs mixed ground in the corner system to the right of the Zero Politics buttress. Descend Zero Politics.
Murray Ball, Tom Perwick, Chris Sillars, Rowan Bashford, Wouter van Beerschoten, July 2014
West Ridge I 1+
A straightforward ascent from the Annan-Kain col. First ascent unknown.
Murray Ball

This place appears in