Mt Chudleigh South Pk

From the head of the true left branch of the Walpole Glacier, ascend a broad rock buttress to the summit, with some snow/ice the gullies in early summer.

Originally climbed from the corner of the Walpole valley. The ridge provides a varied fare of rock climbing over pinnacles, across chevals, and up short walls. The rock is variable and in places offers some difficult moves. The final rise to the South Peak is up short slabs interspersed with ledges. The climbing here is easier than lower on the ridge.

On the Reay face of the West Ridge, climb the pillar on the right of the dark argillite band. Enjoyable rock climbing for ten pitches, finishing on Pt 2477m.

This buttress on the Reay face of the West Ridge finishes on Pt 2617m. Climb the line of weakness up the obvious slabs on the right of the buttress. Five pitches of good rock of mostly grade 12 (avoidable cruxes of 14 and 18) are followed by 12 pitches of loose rock (crux 17). The first ascensionists descended a gully between the Left and Central Buttresses.

On the Reay face of the West Ridge, begin near the base of the Central Buttress, then follow up the left side of the Main Buttress to finish on the summit ridge of Mt Chudleigh, 300m southwest of the South Peak.

On the Reay face, climb the centre of the buttress to finish on the summit ridge of Mt Chudleigh, 300m southwest of the South Peak. The crux of the route is up high.

From the upper Reay Glacier, either:
(i) head up the edge of snow slopes west of Pt 2605m to gain the upper snowfields; or
(ii) climb to Reay Col then scramble over Pt 2605m on loose rock.
The upper snowfields lead to the South Peak. If crevasses are problematic, sticking close to the west edge of the face is likely to give the best travel. A good descent route, which appears to offer a way through even in late summer.

From the Murchison, ascend toward Reay Col, but 200m below the col head straight up steep snow, keeping left of some icecliffs, to reach the upper snowfields.