Red Buttress

The best route on Abel when thereʻs not much snow around, with around 180m of good rock at grade 10–12 followed by scrambling to the summit. There are four bolted abseil stations, all a full 30m apart. Two of these are not on the ascent route, so donʻt be fooled on your way up. The top-most station is about as low as is possible to scramble without a rope. When abseiling from the distinct notch in the buttress, head down the Pencil Couloir side.