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Mt Abel

Type
Mountain
Altitude
2688m
Part of
Malte Brun Range

Previously known as Peak 9144, Close to Kelman and Tasman Saddle huts, Mt Abel has a number of short popular routes. The summit is an excellent viewpoint. Descent is usually by the Red Buttress or the Pencil Couloir. See the Kelman Hut logbook for up-to-date information on fixed gear for abseiling.

Mt Abel and Mt Kain above Kelman Hut, November 2017
Caption

Mt Abel and Mt Kain above Kelman Hut, November 2017

Rights credit
Gavin Lang/First Light Guiding
Lat/lon
-43.521574,170.361729, NZ Topo Map
Accessed from
Haupapa Tasman Glacier
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
6.25 6.25East Ridge, III,3 III,3 0m
0

The most satisfying was to approach this ridge is all the way from Starvation Saddle (along mixed snow and rock), but it can also be gained from the upper Murchison below the north-east face of Mt Abel. The final 250m rock ridge leading up to the summit is generally loose.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
5.53 5.53Kelmanator Left, II,3+ II,3+ 0m
0

Start up the main gully on the left side of the north-west face, then break left to follow the easiest-looking route. Best when there’s plenty of snow around. A funnel for rock fall. First ascent unknown.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+
5.54 5.54Kelmanator Right, II,4,M3 II,4,M3 0m
0

Start up the main gully on the left side of the north-west face, then stay right to climb the gully on the left of the large buttress. A winter and spring route involving M3 climbing. First ascent unknown.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Mixed M3
5.55 5.55Brown Buttress, II,4,16 II,4,16 180m
0

The buttress left of Red Buttress. First ascent unknown.

  • P1
  • 16
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • 180m
5.56 5.56Red Buttress, I,3+,12 I,3+,12 0m
1.02

The best route on Abel when thereʻs not much snow around, with around 180m of good rock at grade 10–12 followed by scrambling to the summit. There are four bolted abseil stations, all a full 30m apart. Two of these are not on the ascent route, so donʻt be fooled on your way up. The top-most station is about as low as is possible to scramble without a rope. When abseiling from the distinct notch in the buttress, head down the Pencil Couloir side.

  • P1
  • 12
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+
5.57 5.57Pencil Couloir, I,2+ I,2+ 0m
0

Popular when there is plenty of snow around. About 200m of 35–40 degree snow with some short steeper steps. First ascent unknown.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Alpine (Technical) 2+
5.58 5.58West Ridge, I,2+ I,2+ 0m
0

From the Abel-Kain col, the ridge involves moderately steep scrambling on loose rock.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Alpine (Technical) 2+
Comments
This place appears in
Aoraki Tai Poutini: a guide for mountaineers, 2018
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
ATP 2018 (Rob Frost)
UUID
 
2a2db94e-5d5b-4427-a577-e6c4fd8e2875