West Ridge aka "The Yak Route"

This has long been a popular route, as it provided the least technical way to the upper West Ridge.
However, over the last few years there has been rampant recession of the Malte Brun Glacier,
which has exposed more difficult rock. By late summer there can also be sections of steep, hard,
old basal ice that require good mountaineering skills to negotiate.
From the true left edge of the upper Malte Brun Glacier, negotiate one to two pitches of glacier-worn rock (grade 12–14), tend right up a ramp, then head up the line of least resistance to gain the West Ridge (a number of options exist).Follow the ridge to the top of the Bonney Rib,and then continue as for Route 5.95.
Hugh Chambers, Jack Clarke, Feb 1912