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West Ridge

First ascent
Laurence Earle, Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, Jan 1910.
Located on

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

This route, or rather series of routes, starts from the head of the Malte Brun Glacier and joins the West Ridge proper well before the “Cheval”, a famous and spectacular narrow section of ridge. The easiest route begins by cutting left from the head of the Malte Brun Glacier up one of a series of couloirs onto a small snowfield and then up a short rock face onto the ridge. An enjoyable alternative, however, is to climb the beautiful rock rib from the col which separates the Malte Brun and Bonney Glaciers. The climbing on these routes is exposed, but not too difficult. On reaching the true West Ridge negotiate the Cheval and then up 200m to the summit. This route is used regularly for descents but be sure to remember where to turn off the West Ridge in order to reach the head of the Malte Brun Glacier.