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Mt Vancouver

Type
Altitude
3309m
Part of
Lat/lon
POINT (170.1418224 -43.58508798)
Topo50
BX15 693 702
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 West Buttress, 12,4- 12,4-
0

  • P1
  • 12
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4-

Begin up slabs to the left of the buttress crest. Follow on up the edge of the buttress. The climbing becomes harder towards the top (crux 12). Then follow a snow arête to the summit.


 From the La Perouse Glacier, 3 3
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

Ascend from the La Perouse Glacier névé up into the cirque separating Malaspina and Vancouver. From here follow a gully onto Vancouver.


 Main Divide, 3+ 3+
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

The ridge from Dampier is relatively straightforward (refer to the North Ridge, via Mt Vancouver, Route), on Mt Dampier. Whereas from Malaspina requires traversing rock towers and rock scrambling on unsound rock, which could prove time consuming for a slow party.


 East Face, 3 3
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

From the Linda Glacier climb up diagonally to the right to gain a steep snow arête leading to the summit. Variations exist for this route on the snowslope to left. Nevertheless it is occasionally used as a descent route.


Comments
Attribution
Alex Palman
UUID
 
0afee2b6-5856-4b10-815b-4da47bcbc593