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Douglas Pk

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The easiest descent route is the West Face of Glacier Pk.
There are a series of gullies on the south side of the Pioneer Ridge, 200m east of Pioneer Hut and adjacent to the Cleves Glacier. When in condition (spring, winter) these gullies provide good short ice climbs. Descend on to the Explorer Névé. First ascents are unknown.

POINT (170.20171514 -43.54120204)
BX16 739 753
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Type Name
Face South Face


Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 From the Tasman Glacier, 3 3

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

This peak is usually climbed from the Tasman Glacier via Glacier Peak. Access from the Forrest-Ross Névé onto the south (Ayres) ridge is quite feasible. Another route exists from the névé, which ascends up under the summit before cutting right to the col with Glacier Peak.

 North Divide Ridge, 3- 3-

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3-

Ascend either Glacier Peak or to the Glacier-Douglas col. Follow the snow ridge to a short 30m ice/rock step to the summit ridge. This is the best way off Douglas and usually involves one abseil. Descend the West Face of Glacier Pk

 North West Face, 4 4

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4

Ascend the snow slopes under the West Ridge and up in to a narrow couloir to the right of a prominent rock buttress. Where the couloir ends, climb the mixed rock and snowface to the summit. (Routes have been descended on the left of the face, but this is not a good idea.) Winter ascent 28/8/14 Stepped left at the top of the Couloir and ascended snow slopes to the summit ridge. Variation on new ground.

 Pioneer Ridge, 3+ 3+

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

Usually gained from the Explorer Glacier. An exhilaratingly exposed route which follows an arête, a rock step, another arête and then leads up to the final rock wall which provides the crux. If the top rocks are iced turn this rock step on the South Face.

 Ayres Ridge, 4 4

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4

An unrelenting ridge between Mt Haidinger and Douglas Peak with many rock towers, varying in soundness. The final rise to the summit of Douglas is probably the hardest section and can be avoided on the east.

Alex Palman
Photo, Markus Milne