The approach via the Linda Glacier is steep and often complicated with crevasses. An alternative approach using the East Spur of Mt Malaspina and then traversing north on the Divide (usually with one abseil) may prove better in some conditions. The La Perouse side of the saddle is relatively straightforward, but if schrunds prove difficult, a dog-leg couloir closer to Mt Malaspina may be better. Refer to Chapter 13 for more information.
First reached by Dan Bryant and Lud Mahan in January 1933, from Mt Teichelmann (then descended to Linda ).
First crossed (east to west) by Alastair Duthie, Greta Stevenson, and Kurt Suter, Jan 1934. After walking out the Cook valley to Franz Josef, Alastair and Greta then walked for ten days over Haast Pass to Makarora.
