Mt Barnicoat

(5 routes)

The route by which the first ascent of this peak was made is not clear.
Peter Graham, J Milne, Julian Grande, Mar 1923 (possibly from the Franz side).

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
2800m
Aspect: 
South
Lat/Lon: 
-43.526437000000, 170.209289000000
NZMS260: 
M28 689 757
Topo50: 
BQ23 589 140
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Rope Boy 4+
0
Start up the obvious corner-ramp, directly under the high peak, moving left a quarter of the way up. Join ice patches by zig zagging, finishing between the east (high) and west peaks. About half way up there is a rock band (crux) with a chimney that connects the upper and lower snowfields. Descent: head over the west peak to a low point before Mallory (may involve an abseil), then a short steep rappel onto a snowfield to the south-west, then backclimb or rappel to the névé. A very pleasant 6 pitch mixed climb.
Don French, Mar 1993.
Lust for Life 5+ , , , ,
0
It starts immediately left of the bottom of Tigger. Tigger is the striking ramp ice line that runs nearly the length of the face angling from left to right. Please note: Lust for Life bears no resemblance to Rope Boy. Apart from the possibility that Rope Boy probably has a lust for life. Cross the schrund and climb a 5 metre vertical step. This was the start used on the first ascent but on the second ascent it was poorly formed overhanging chandelier ice. A better alternative is a narrow slot just to the right. This is steep mixed climbing with good rock pro. There is a good piton placement on the right wall near the bottom. This pitch ends after another 30 metres of moderate ice.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
15+0mNo
 It starts immediately left of the bottom of Tigger. Tigger is the striking ramp ice line that runs nearly the length of the face angling from left to right. Please note: Lust for Life bears no resemblance to Rope Boy. Apart from the possibility that Rope Boy probably has a lust for life. Cross the schrund and climb a 5 metre vertical step. This was the start used on the first ascent but on the second ascent it was poorly formed overhanging chandelier ice. A better alternative is a narrow slot just to the right. This is steep mixed climbing with good rock pro. There is a good piton placement on the right wall near the bottom. This pitch ends after another 30 metres of moderate ice.
20mNo
 Head up and slightly right on steep ice aiming for the solid white line above. It's probably better to shorten this pitch rather than belaying on the 80 degree ice above.
30mNo
  Climb a short step of vertical ice then veer left and pick your way up through some tight gullies between rock outcrops. A fun interesting pitch.
40mNo
 This is the crux. A 40 metre sustained pitch of 80-85 degree ice that angles slightly from left to right. The exposure increases as you gain height, with overhanging ground above and below. The first ascent traversed in from the left at about half height due to the bottom section of the line not being formed. The climbing on the traverse was difficult mixed. Really good fun!
50mNo
 Another good pitch of steepish ice that finishes where the angle of the wall eases. Another 2 pitches of straightforward gulley climbing leads to the summit ridge. A good way to descend could be to rap the route on V threads and rock anchors. The snow slope on the Franz Josef side isn't recommended as it is an avalanche prone, death on a stick, slop fest after being baked by the sun.
Craig Jefferies, Allan Uren, Sep 1999.
Tigger III, 4+ III 4 4+
0
One of the best-looking lines in this fair land. Ascend the obvious right-leaning ramp, finishing right of the summit. About six pitches of sustained 65-70 degree ice and mixed climbing with some vertical bulges. Unless you’re going to the summit, descend East Shoulder route
David Kneen, Marcel Geelen, Dec 1999.
East Shoulder III 3+
0
Right of the south face of Barnicoat, just right of the dominant bluff. The top half sports ice up to 55 degrees. A good climb for those not looking for a big day out. The first ascent party descended the route.
Stu Gray, Brian Williamson, Jan 1987.
White Line III 4
0
On the far right of the Barnicoat massif is a buttress with a narrow gully running up it. Two to three pitches lead to a snowfield that is climbed for another two to three pitches to the crest. This is a good fun route you can climb even on an inclement day.
Ben Hawthorne, Stuart Hollaway, Nick Morgan, Sept 2006
Attribution: 
Alex Palman

Comments

Here is a better route description for Lust for Life on the Sth Face of Barnicoat. It starts immediately left of the bottom of Tigger. Tigger is the striking ramp ice line that runs nearly the length of the face angling from left to right. Please note: Lust for Life bears no resemblance to Rope Boy. Apart from the possibility that Rope Boy probably has a lust for life.
Pitch 1 Cross the schrund and climb a 5 metre vertical step. This was the start used on the first ascent but on the second ascent it was poorly formed overhanging chandelier ice. A better alternative is a narrow slot just to the right. This is steep mixed climbing with good rock pro. There is a good piton placement on the right wall near the bottom. This pitch ends after another 30 metres of moderate ice.
Pitch 2 Head up and slightly right on steep ice aiming for the solid white line above. It's probably better to shorten this pitch rather than belaying on the 80 degree ice above.
Pitch 3 Climb a short step of vertical ice then veer left and pick your way up through some tight gullies between rock outcrops. A fun interesting pitch.
Pitch 4 This is the crux. A 40 metre sustained pitch of 80-85 degree ice that angles slightly from left to right. The exposure increases as you gain height, with overhanging ground above and below. The first ascent traversed in from the left at about half height due to the bottom section of the line not being formed. The climbing on the traverse was difficult mixed. Really good fun!
Pitch 5 Another good pitch of steepish ice that finishes where the angle of the wall eases. Another 2 pitches of straightforward gulley climbing leads to the summit ridge. A good way to descend could be to rap the route on V threads and rock anchors. The snow slope on the Franz Josef side isn't recommended as it is an avalanche prone, death on a stick, slop fest after being baked by the sun. First ascent Craig Jefferies, Allan Uren Sep 1999

Allan Uren