Lust for Life

Type: 
Alpine
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
15+0mNo
 

It starts immediately left of the bottom of Tigger. Tigger is the striking ramp ice line that runs nearly the length of the face angling from left to right. Please note: Lust for Life bears no resemblance to Rope Boy. Apart from the possibility that Rope Boy probably has a lust for life.
Cross the schrund and climb a 5 metre vertical step. This was the start used on the first ascent but on the second ascent it was poorly formed overhanging chandelier ice. A better alternative is a narrow slot just to the right. This is steep mixed climbing with good rock pro. There is a good piton placement on the right wall near the bottom. This pitch ends after another 30 metres of moderate ice.

20mNo
 

Head up and slightly right on steep ice aiming for the solid white line above. It's probably better to shorten this pitch rather than belaying on the 80 degree ice above.

30mNo
 

Climb a short step of vertical ice then veer left and pick your way up through some tight gullies between rock outcrops. A fun interesting pitch.

40mNo
 

This is the crux. A 40 metre sustained pitch of 80-85 degree ice that angles slightly from left to right. The exposure increases as you gain height, with overhanging ground above and below. The first ascent traversed in from the left at about half height due to the bottom section of the line not being formed. The climbing on the traverse was difficult mixed. Really good fun!

50mNo
 

Another good pitch of steepish ice that finishes where the angle of the wall eases. Another 2 pitches of straightforward gulley climbing leads to the summit ridge. A good way to descend could be to rap the route on V threads and rock anchors. The snow slope on the Franz Josef side isn't recommended as it is an avalanche prone, death on a stick, slop fest after being baked by the sun.

Grade: 
5+ , , , ,
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Craig Jefferies, Allan Uren, Sep 1999.
UUID: 
8113c510-23cf-41dd-a752-1995f9606754