|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
It starts immediately left of the bottom of Tigger. Tigger is the striking ramp ice line that runs nearly the length of the face angling from left to right. Please note: Lust for Life bears no resemblance to Rope Boy. Apart from the possibility that Rope Boy probably has a lust for life.
Head up and slightly right on steep ice aiming for the solid white line above. It's probably better to shorten this pitch rather than belaying on the 80 degree ice above.
Climb a short step of vertical ice then veer left and pick your way up through some tight gullies between rock outcrops. A fun interesting pitch.
This is the crux. A 40 metre sustained pitch of 80-85 degree ice that angles slightly from left to right. The exposure increases as you gain height, with overhanging ground above and below. The first ascent traversed in from the left at about half height due to the bottom section of the line not being formed. The climbing on the traverse was difficult mixed. Really good fun!
Another good pitch of steepish ice that finishes where the angle of the wall eases. Another 2 pitches of straightforward gulley climbing leads to the summit ridge. A good way to descend could be to rap the route on V threads and rock anchors. The snow slope on the Franz Josef side isn't recommended as it is an avalanche prone, death on a stick, slop fest after being baked by the sun.
Lust for Life
5+ , , , ,
Craig Jefferies, Allan Uren, Sep 1999.