|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
Start up the obvious corner-ramp, directly under the high peak, moving left a quarter of the way up. Join ice patches by zig zagging, finishing between the east (high) and west peaks. About half way up there is a rock band (crux) with a chimney that connects the upper and lower snowfields. Descent: head over the west peak to a low point before Mallory (may involve an abseil), then a short steep rappel onto a snowfield to the south-west, then backclimb or rappel to the névé. A very pleasant 6 pitch mixed climb.
Don French, Mar 1993.