Torres Pk

A short route of steep snow and ice, which unfortunately tends to act as a funnel for any rubbish falling from the surrounding slopes.

From the Abel Janszoon Glacier ascend steep, loose rock and steep snowfields (which may not exist later in summer) reaching the ridge 200m west of the summit.

A steep, but relatively straightforward route involving 200m of snow, a 70m leftward traverse, and then a couloir to the summit ridge.

Access onto the ridge varies. Starting from Katies Col ascents have been made on the northern side of the lower buttress (the first ascent in 1907) and up the ridge itself from the col. The best routes, though, involve skirting round onto the snowfields above the Balfour Glacier and either ascending a snowslope onto the ridge above the first step or ascending the first prominent rib falling south-west from the ridge. Then follow the winding arête and rock steps to the summit.

Ascend the glacier on the Katies Col side of the rib until confronted by a 200m rock step. Climb the step near the crest (crux) and follow the snow arête to the summit. A variant, Torres Forres, follows the same general line but takes an ice gully above and left of the suspended snowfield, rejoining the main route above.

WI4, WI3+, WI3+, WI5, WI3, M5

The south face of the west rib, from the Balfour Glacier. Six pitches to the ridgeline. First two pitches are the crux with vertical bulges, then progressively easier climbing to the top.