Torres Pk

(13 routes)


-43.559971000000, 170.146461000000
H36 796 341
BX15 696 725
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Torres-Tasman Col 4
A short route of steep snow and ice, which unfortunately tends to act as a funnel for any rubbish falling from the surrounding slopes.
Rob Rainsbury, John Visser, Jan 1971 (Descended
North East Face 5
From the Abel Janszoon Glacier ascend steep, loose rock and steep snowfields (which may not exist later in summer) reaching the ridge 200m west of the summit.
Bill Denz, Geoff Gabites, Mike Perry, Aug 1977.
North East Couloir 3+
A steep, but relatively straightforward route involving 200m of snow, a 70m leftward traverse, and then a couloir to the summit ridge.
Alan Berry, J M Davie, Hugh Tyndale-Biscoe, I R Wood, Jan 1954 (Descended).
West Ridge 4
Access onto the ridge varies. Starting from Katies Col ascents have been made on the northern side of the lower buttress (the first ascent in 1907) and up the ridge itself from the col. The best routes, though, involve skirting round onto the snowfields above the Balfour Glacier and either ascending a snowslope onto the ridge above the first step or ascending the first prominent rib falling south-west from the ridge. Then follow the winding arĂȘte and rock steps to the summit.
Alex Graham, Henry Newton, Ebenezer Teichelmann, Feb 1907.
Left Rib 3+
Ascend the glacier on the Katies Col side of the rib until confronted by a 200m rock step. Climb the step near the crest (crux) and follow the snow arĂȘte to the summit. A variant, Torres Forres, follows the same general line but takes an ice gully above and left of the suspended snowfield, rejoining the main route above.
Alan Berry, J M H Davie, I R Wood, Hugh Tyndale-Biscoe, Jan 1954.
Lost in Translation WI5 M5
WI4, WI3+, WI3+, WI5, WI3, M5
Daniel Joll, Alex Corpas, 2012
Degrees of Illness III 4 4
The south face of the west rib, from the Balfour Glacier. Six pitches to the ridgeline. First two pitches are the crux with vertical bulges, then progressively easier climbing to the top.
Brendan Maggs
Alex Palman


Type Title Link to edit content
Face (Alpine) North Face (2 routes)
Face (Alpine) South Face (4 routes)