Torres Pk

A short route of steep snow and ice, which unfortunately tends to act as a funnel for any rubbish falling from the surrounding slopes. Used as a descent by the first party. Stay away.

Access onto the ridge varies. Starting from Katies Col, ascents have been made on the northern side of the lower buttress (the first ascent in 1907) and up the ridge itself from the col. The easiest routes, though, involve skirting round onto the snowfields above the Balfour Glacier and either ascending a snow slope onto the ridge above the first step, or ascending the first prominent rib falling south-west from the ridge. Then follow the winding arête and rock steps to the summit.

Begins from the upper true right of the large snowfield before the West Rib, from the Balfour Glacier. Ice bulges on the first two pitches provide the crux, and then the climbing is progressively easier. A satisfying sixth pitch takes a narrow, right-trending ledge through the steep headwall. Tops out low on the West Ridge.

Gain the suspended snowfield left of the West Rib, starting from the upper left corner of the snowfield. The gully turns right to join the top of the West Rib.

This is the second rib across from Katies Col, with the distinctive notch near the base that is commonly used for access to the Balfour Neve. Ascend the glacier on the Katies Col side of the rib until confronted by a 200m rock step. Climb the step near the crest (crux) and follow the snow arête to the summit.