South Face

(5 routes)

Face (Alpine)
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Lost in Translation IV 6+ WI5 M5
This route is on the south side of the West Rib, starting just left of a prominent snow and ice gully, and topping out at a prominent point at the lower end of the level section on the West Rib. Six steep pitches of iced and mixed climbing (WI4, WI3+, WI3+, WI5, WI3, M5). Descend the lower West Rib route.
Alex Corpas, Daniel Joll, June 2012
Left Buttress V 4
Begin up the base of the prominent snow and ice gully about 250m right of the access gully at the base of the West Rib, and then move right across a diagonal snow slope to gain the buttress. Climb up through mixed ground and then cut left through a rotten rock band onto the snow and ice crest of the upper West Rib, which is followed to the summit.
Dave Bamford, John Nankervis, Ian Whitehouse, Brin Williman, January 1980
The Man from Head Office Who Found It Harder to Get Off Than to Get Up Direct V 5
Ascend the major gully as for The Man from Head Office and then break left and climb steep ice directly to the summit.
Russell Braddock, Andy Harris, September 1984
The Man from Head Office Who Found It Harder to Get Off Than to Get Up V 4
Ascend the major gully that separates the left and right buttresses, beginning directly below the summit. A series of ice steps in the lower part of the gully are followed by snow and ice slopes leading right onto the Torres-Tasman Ridge near the summit of Torres.
Dave Bamford, Russell Braddock, Andy Harris, John Nankervis, October 1983
Right Buttress V 4
Start up steep rock in the centre of the buttress, which after three rope lengths eases back and leads on to a snow and ice rib curving up to the Tasman-Torres ridge.
Dave Bamford, Keith Woodford, December 1978
Alex Palman