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South Face

Type
Part of
Aspect
South
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Lost in Translation, 6+,IV,WI5,M5 6+,IV,WI5,M5
0

This route is on the south side of the West Rib, starting just left of a prominent snow and ice gully, and topping out at a prominent point at the lower end of the level section on the West Rib. Six steep pitches of iced and mixed climbing (WI4, WI3+, WI3+, WI5, WI3, M5). Descend the lower West Rib route.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 6+
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Water Ice WI5
  • Mixed M5

 Left Buttress, 4,V 4,V
0

Begin up the base of the prominent snow and ice gully about 250m right of the access gully at the base of the West Rib, and then move right across a diagonal snow slope to gain the buttress. Climb up through mixed ground and then cut left through a rotten rock band onto the snow and ice crest of the upper West Rib, which is followed to the summit.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) V

 The Man from Head Office Who Found It Harder to Get Off Than to Get Up Direct, 5,V 5,V
0

Ascend the major gully as for The Man from Head Office and then break left and climb steep ice directly to the summit.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 5
  • Alpine (Commitment) V

 The Man from Head Office Who Found It Harder to Get Off Than to Get Up, 4,V 4,V
0

Ascend the major gully that separates the left and right buttresses, beginning directly below the summit. A series of ice steps in the lower part of the gully are followed by snow and ice slopes leading right onto the Torres-Tasman Ridge near the summit of Torres.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) V

 Right Buttress, 4,V 4,V
0

Start up steep rock in the centre of the buttress, which after three rope lengths eases back and leads on to a snow and ice rib curving up to the Tasman-Torres ridge.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) V

Comments
Attribution
Alex Palman
UUID
 
da01a264-b7db-40a2-bd25-d33a208e86ff